Dang, maybe I should have run the Kevlars longer? I did put 1,400+ miles on them...

Oh, as far as synthetic oil, Rotella T6 and I believe, the standard T are JASO rated oils, FWIW. I do know a lot of people will not run synth in wet clutches.

So I found the package from my Barnett springs, 501-25-06043. Different from either posted above. Per Barnett's website, I have the correct spring for the 2012 KLX250S, is the other number or the KTM spec spring stronger or longer? Am I missing something?

TC

 

 

 

Hey folks. So what are "go-to" springs for 351/355 kit nowadays? Barnett 501-40-06017 as MrDuhfactor suggested?
@RaceGass what's conclusion from your experiments with different springs?

 

My dealer put in 6 Barnet springs and makes the clutch pull a bit on the heavy side. I’d go 3 barnet and 3 stock looking back as I get no slippage at all

 

I looked up the application for those Barnett springs Mr duhfactor suggested, so I ordered ‘81-84 atc250r springs. They coil bound on installation so on the shelf they went. Still running the Barnett hd klx springs 501-25-06043 after the ebc springs sacked out early on. I still think running full synthetic oil caused the initial problems I encountered so back to maxima 4 stroke oil and change it more frequently.

Now if I replaced the clutch I’d got with kx125 fibers & Barnett springs and run one of those extended clutch actuator arms to lessen arm pump maybe add a ez pull clutch lever

 

Thanks for feedback! Yeah I feel 6 Barnett will be stiff and make clutch very heavy for single finger.

@RaceGass I'm reading through this thread - https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...h-notes-41905/ and this post https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...e2/#post462789
According to the info there it is not possible to use all 7 friction plates 13088-1090 from kx125 as the clutch package will become too thick. Should I use all 6 thinner steel disks 13089-1117?
Any experience removing Judder Spring?

 

Its been a minute since I’ve been inside the clutch of my klx351, but if your using 7 fiber plates in general you’ll need to use 6 metal plates to allow the needed clearance for the clutch to operate as it should. I’ve been able to reuse the Oem klx metal plates with the ebc dirt digger fibers. I’ll be definitely be measuring the thickness of said used metal plates for correct running clearances if I get the kx125 plates in the future.
The judder plate in my experience just visually had a narrower friction surface band which in design allow it to slip to create a desired smoother clutch action. In actual use in my other engines, when I changed the fiber clutch plates the judder plate was not reused as the maximum ‘grip’ was the intended purpose. The EBC dirt digger fiber plate kit, it didn’t call for reusing the judder plate. I’m not sure if running the kx125 fiber plates the judder plate is wanted or needed. With the 351 added engine torque my thoughts were no slippage is wanted. YMMV in use so I wouldn’t throw away that judder plate & spring just in case.
When using a Rekluse core 3.0 auto clutch in my 450x when setting it up the manufacturers suggest using the original judder plate & spring for added slippage when the engine engages. As explained sometimes the auto clutch ‘grabs’ or makes audible noises in use which can annoy users. I found the noise went away with use and the ‘grabbiness’ was acceptably satisfactory without the use of the judder plate & spring.
The actual Barnett clutch springs Mr duhfactor suggests using 501-40-06017 I’ve never seen in comparison to the stock klx clutch springs or the klx250s hd Barnett springs I’m currently using 501-40-06043. But in actual installation all of the clutch springs I’ve tried installing have coil bound except for the 501-40-06043 Barnett springs, ebc dirt digger kit springs, and the Oem klx250s springs. With the last two springs mentioned performance deteriorated in use fairly quickly with the 351 big bore kit.

 

I did the 3 Barnet and 3 Stock a la MrDuhFactor and while there is no clutch slippage and it’s comfortable enough to pull with 2 fingers, it’s definitely still a beast to pull. I’ve toyed with the idea of just going back to all stock springs but is there a happy medium?

 

Change the mechanical leverage advantage. Owners of 2003+ Yamaha wr450f bikes are affected by a tough clutch pull, a friend uses both to ease forearm pump. Keng engines sells a nifty anodized green extended arm.