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oh yea, just noticed.... they also list the "wobble method"... you move the stem from side to side and it gives a relative indication of how much wear there is between stem and guide. not as accurate as measuring the parts, but a good indication. need the springs off, and easiest with a dial indicator but can also be done with a fixture and a set of feeler gauges
As far I understand, to check the wear of the valves it's necessary valves to be removed.
For checking and repairing special tools are needed.
I asked machine shop that specializes on engines heads repairing to check the head of my 351 (the head was removed due to another reason).
They used some kind of vacuum machine to check valve tightness and found that it would be good to repair all 4 valves and also valve seats.
Then I got assembled engine head back, put it on and adjusted valve clearances.
Yea, you have to pull the valves to clean them up. I would test the leakage with fluid like dogmeat says and if it passes ... run it. If you think they need to be cleaned or pulled $40 will get you a valve spring compressor. Waste of time cleaning up a head in that condition with valves installed. I usually pull them and clean up the contact areas with oiled up fine scotch brite, MAYBE wire wheel the tops .... very carefully, use an alum scraper to get the crustys out of the combination chamber, a toothbrush sized wire brush etc etc. Then I will lap with very fine lapping compound. The course stuff will mess up your contact areas. I just had my 5700 head apart and the valves looked like yours, and it was perfect. At least the valves anyways.
Yea, you have to pull the valves to clean them up. I would test the leakage with fluid like dogmeat says and if it passes ... run it. If you think they need to be cleaned or pulled $40 will get you a valve spring compressor. Waste of time cleaning up a head in that condition with valves installed. I usually pull them and clean up the contact areas with oiled up fine scotch brite, MAYBE wire wheel the tops .... very carefully, use an alum scraper to get the crustys out of the combination chamber, a toothbrush sized wire brush etc etc. Then I will lap with very fine lapping compound. The course stuff will mess up your contact areas. I just had my 5700 head apart and the valves looked like yours, and it was perfect. At least the valves anyways.
In my case it was natural wear of the contact areas, both for valves and valve seats... most probably due to the respectable age of the bike - it's 2001 japanese klx.
Valves were checked after I pulled and cleaned them. For cleaning I used copper brush and fireplace cleaner chemical, it worked
Ok. Turns out the above photo are alignment dowels I have to be inserted so the head and cylinder fit properly. I dissembled the top end in order to do so and in the attempt of getting the cylinder over the piston, the god damn cam chain guide popped off. FML
Something tells me it's not going to be easy to put in as it was to pop off.
