So if y'all had been following my previous post here, you'd know that I had a stripped oil drain hole. Today, I drove out to my foiks house 40+ miles from where I live to have my pops help me re-tap the hole. Before I left I topped her off with oil. I was in between 6000 & 8000 rpm the whole ride. This was one of the longest trips I had taken on the KLX. When I was 2 miles away, the engine shut off completely. I pulled the cutch in art 40 mph and bump started her. She continued for another mile or so and shut off again. Couldn't bump start the 2nd time around. Buttt when I pulled the clutch in, I could here the gears grinding inside. A real uncomfortable sound. When I came to a complete stop, oil was pouring out the drain hole. My pops came and picked me up. We were able to tap the drain hole 1 size up from M10 to M12. Filled her up with oil but she wouldnt fire up.

Below is a video link of what it now sounds like when I try and start her.


Did I lose compression in the piston? How do I fix. I really don't know what got messed up. '

Any help is appreciated!

 

That doesn't sound good at all... No compression, broken connecting rod maybe? You're looking at an engine rebuild at this point.

 

 

the piston and rings probably shot, but plan on buying a new head. loss of oil pressure ****s the head. the exhaust cam galls the journals. lookin at a teardown

 

Time for a 351 big bore! lol

 

Honestly yeah, was already looking in the direction of a BB 351 kit. Would that solve the issue? Something tells me its not that simple of a fix.

I've never rebuilt an engine before and definitely want to learn through this mis-hap.

 

Dogmeat,

What do you mean by "galls the journals" ?

 

The top end will have to be taken apart to determine if there is crank/rod damage. If so then the entire engine must come apart and it's not gonna be a cheap fix. Running an engine without oil is disastrous. The best starting point is to download the service manual and read read read! There are links on this forum to the manual. The last thing you want is to dump $1500 in parts into the engine and have it fail again on first start.

The cam shafts spin directly into the head aluminum with no bearings in between. Running without oil will have damaged those surfaces hence the "galling the journals" comment above.

 

As for the big bore, it includes the cylinder, piston, rings, circlips, head gasket, base gasket. Those are all parts that you will need however there will be more parts needed to complete the job.

 

the bottom end runs in roller bearings and is probably fine because all it needs is a splash of oil. the small end of the con rod will be your indicator. if it has any discoloration from heat then the rod should be replaced. if it looks normal, I would rinse out the engine with kerosene, clean the oil pump pickup screen, check the oil pump and replace if damaged.

start with a look in the oil filter. if there is a bunch of aluminum flakes in there, they probably came from the head. easy to confirm. pull the valve cover there will be aluminum flakes. measure the clearance on the exhaust, it will be too big. if that is so, it means buying a new or serviceable head. the old valves are probably OK, and can be cleaned up. the intake cam is maybe OK, but the EX cam will probably need to be replaced. the ex cam is last in line for oil in the system.

edit. as racegas says below... don't buy parts until you know what you need. but it's time to start looking