AUS 351 kit jetting spec?
Hi,
Any aussy riders with their 351 running perfect (using stock carb not pumper and only keihin jet sizes please)?.....
I need to know what main, pilot jet, spacers under needle? etc sizes for when mine gets here so I have jets all ready to go.
I currently have 138 main, 40 pilot, needle shimmed 2mm and kdx snorkel, powerbomb header and FMF Q4 exhaust. Thinking maybe just a 140 will do when I get 351?
Thanks in advance everyone- & only Aus riders please as we have different fuel and ignition advance over here.
Any aussy riders with their 351 running perfect (using stock carb not pumper and only keihin jet sizes please)?.....
I need to know what main, pilot jet, spacers under needle? etc sizes for when mine gets here so I have jets all ready to go.
I currently have 138 main, 40 pilot, needle shimmed 2mm and kdx snorkel, powerbomb header and FMF Q4 exhaust. Thinking maybe just a 140 will do when I get 351?
Thanks in advance everyone- & only Aus riders please as we have different fuel and ignition advance over here.
Hey Jimmy101... I can’t help you with your jetting but have you got the kit installed?
I have just about raised enough funds to get one off Bill but am interested on your take on the power especially since your the first AU person I have seen get one and our bikes seem to have more power stock compared to the USA one.
I have just about raised enough funds to get one off Bill but am interested on your take on the power especially since your the first AU person I have seen get one and our bikes seem to have more power stock compared to the USA one.
You pretty much running what the Kawa' service bulletin recommended for the 300 cc upgrade. #138 main, #38 pilot (you have the #40,) and needle raised. I recon' you'll not be far off the mark with that set up for the 351 cc kit. The CV carb' is very forgiving in regards to jetting. If you want to upgrade the main then I recon' a #142 (Keihin) should be a good start (with the stock N1RX needle.) Although you'll get a similar result with the N1TC needle and keeping the #138 main jet, it allows a fair bit more fuel through on the upper part of the taper compared to the stock N1RX. I've tried both and gone back to the N1RX as the bike was too rich with the N1TC and the #138 main. Mine is still 250 cc BTW, but I'm running the Kawa' service bulletin specs except for the jet needle mentioned (part #16017-1368.)
If it was me I'd go the N1TC needle and keep the #138 main jet and #40 pilot. When I ran the N1TC with the #138 main on my 07 250R, even on the top clip, leanest position, the needle was too rich for the bike. This makes me think there is plenty of room to add fuel to the main circuit with the N1TC needle as it has 6 more (richer positions.)
I got my needle from these guys . (Needle N1TC part number is #16009-1912, Clip part # 92037-1401, Collar part # 92143-1677) >>> Welcome to Mototech Motorcycle Technology
Great service from them and got the stuff in the mail very quick.
If it was me I'd go the N1TC needle and keep the #138 main jet and #40 pilot. When I ran the N1TC with the #138 main on my 07 250R, even on the top clip, leanest position, the needle was too rich for the bike. This makes me think there is plenty of room to add fuel to the main circuit with the N1TC needle as it has 6 more (richer positions.)
I got my needle from these guys . (Needle N1TC part number is #16009-1912, Clip part # 92037-1401, Collar part # 92143-1677) >>> Welcome to Mototech Motorcycle Technology
Great service from them and got the stuff in the mail very quick.
Last edited by WestOzKLX; Jun 30, 2011 at 04:18 AM.
neilapples - no just ordered so I guess will see it in 10 days or so.
WestOz - yes I reckon it would have to be close. I just want it to be really close because basically once I put it together 1 week later I will be doing about a 2000km ride and don't want to burn a valve. If I had time I would dyno it - in fact I will if I can. At least where I am going is high and cold so should be a little richer with altitude (better than lean).
Please if anyone in AUS has it sorted let me know!
WestOz - yes I reckon it would have to be close. I just want it to be really close because basically once I put it together 1 week later I will be doing about a 2000km ride and don't want to burn a valve. If I had time I would dyno it - in fact I will if I can. At least where I am going is high and cold so should be a little richer with altitude (better than lean).
Please if anyone in AUS has it sorted let me know!
neilapples - no just ordered so I guess will see it in 10 days or so.
WestOz - yes I reckon it would have to be close. I just want it to be really close because basically once I put it together 1 week later I will be doing about a 2000km ride and don't want to burn a valve. If I had time I would dyno it - in fact I will if I can. At least where I am going is high and cold so should be a little richer with altitude (better than lean).
Please if anyone in AUS has it sorted let me know!
WestOz - yes I reckon it would have to be close. I just want it to be really close because basically once I put it together 1 week later I will be doing about a 2000km ride and don't want to burn a valve. If I had time I would dyno it - in fact I will if I can. At least where I am going is high and cold so should be a little richer with altitude (better than lean).
Please if anyone in AUS has it sorted let me know!
This gives the idea.
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