Yeah, I think you nailed it. The onlything I would add after studying the valve issue for quite some time is that the hard fast reving seems to be the single most signific factor in valve wear on this bike. Your results from the bronze seats will be interesting. I remember Bill P. over at ThumperTalk had Jerry do the same thing to his, but he hasn't ridden his KLX enough since doing so to evaluate it. I guessthat's what happenswhen you buy a WR250F!

 

Yeah, you can forget about one of the Kouba or similar adjustable fuel screws. There's just not room. And maybe the 1/2 inch is more like 1/4 inch? I remember I used a big screwdriver to leverage the carb up while I tightened down the boots, then released and that worked well for me.

I found that the engine side fit fine, no problems there. It was the airbox boot that you had to be careful with to get it to seat well.

 

I'm a little skeptical right now. After a year in which I rode quite a bit for about 8 months, my season is about October thru May or June,thevalves showed accelerated wear equivalent to about at least threeseasons of riding. Jerry was concerned and he is very good to work with and he re-worked some things, so we'll see what happens next. I just haven't been able to ride hardly at allthis season so I will probably wait until about the middle of next season or so and see how everything looks. I will keep my fingers crossed.

 

Yeah, I think that's common with all of the flatside pumpers used on this bike, although it gets much easier each time you do it. What messed me up at first was the index mark on the air cleaner side of the duct. Once I figured out why it was there and what to line it up with, the hose seated much easier on both ends Doh!!!

 

nobrakes- thanks very much for posting those images, they were exactly what I'm after.
This is my carb : Note the much longer intake trumpet, and the shorter outlet trumpet I'm gonna mail Jerry at FSW and see if I can purchase new trumpets to fit... it looks like the outlet is already an adapter which I might be able to remove and replace.

 

Yeah, that's pretty long. I'm sure you can find a shorter adapter for it. I'm sure Jerry can find a solution.

 

I emailed Jerry but no response so far, and I'm not sure I can be stuffed with it anyway. Anyone in Australia want to purchase an FCR35 set up for a KLX300?

 

Hey Nobrakes

Thanks for this post (even though it's old). I have searched the forums a bit and am stuggling for ino, so please excuse me if this hand been answered already - I honestly did look before asking.

Is this an FCR or an FCR-MX carb? I just got one that looks identicle (box says it's afor an XR250). Reason I ask is that the Taffy and/or BK mod's to limit how long the pump squirts for seem to be for an FCR that looks different to this one (from pics I have seen on Thumper Talk and Dirt Bike World). Does this FCR not need such a mod? Or does it need an alternative type of mod to limit the quirt and prevent bogging?

Also, does this carb need (or is it possible) to do the O-ring mod that prevents affects the delay before the AP starts squirting the extra fuel? Again, the pics I have seen seem to be for a different looking FCR.

Any hints or tips about setting the carb up, best settings & jettings (for sea level), or anything else?

Oh yeah, and how do I attach drain pipes on this carb? I can see the attachment for the fuel to go in, but can't see any attachments to put drain hoses on in case the carb floods after a fall or something.