am i too big for a klx 250?
#11
that is true, it has alot of extra stuff on it to be more comfy on road. I think I have decided to get an off road bike and get it liscensed since my main reason is just riding to and from the trails. Then maybe a 10r to fill "other needs" thanks for the info
#12
I'm 230lb, pack a full kit of 80-90lb, and tend to play at higher elevations in fairly demanding terrain. The mods that make the KLX250S work really well for me are the full Muzzy and re-jet, and properly spec'd springs for my range of load. I have yet to experience a genuine need for additional displacement. Moto Pro is the way to go for the springs, gets the fronts custom wrapped to the correct length, and knows the bike and the #'s for real. This guy has been doing suspension work for a long time, knows his stuff, especially for dirt and DS/ADV. The stock valving and oil are spec'd well, all you really need is springs. he installed the springs on the bike for under $400. Take out install cost and WA 9.5% tax, and you can probably DIY for under $300 w/ shipping.
YMMV :-)
YMMV :-)
#13
I'm 230lb, pack a full kit of 80-90lb, and tend to play at higher elevations in fairly demanding terrain. The mods that make the KLX250S work really well for me are the full Muzzy and re-jet, and properly spec'd springs for my range of load. I have yet to experience a genuine need for additional displacement. Moto Pro is the way to go for the springs, gets the fronts custom wrapped to the correct length, and knows the bike and the #'s for real. This guy has been doing suspension work for a long time, knows his stuff, especially for dirt and DS/ADV. The stock valving and oil are spec'd well, all you really need is springs. he installed the springs on the bike for under $400. Take out install cost and WA 9.5% tax, and you can probably DIY for under $300 w/ shipping.
YMMV :-)
YMMV :-)
Sounds like you're really enjoying the little KLX. I'm curious as to the springs. What were the spring rates, were they set up for your extra riding load, and how does the bike behave when it's not all loaded up?
#14
I don't remember what he used for rates, probably have it written down somewhere if you really want the specifics. John set it up to split the difference in a way where I can pretty effectively adjust for changing conditions on the fly with dampening. Fully loaded I'm a wee bit under sprung, completely unloaded I'm a bit over. Where I basically never run without basic recovery kit and spare fuel, I never really fall into the later.
When I picked up the bike it was load free, we checked the sag and I was just over the top of the range. With daily kit I'm just under the top of the range, and with full kit I don't feel like I'm really under sprung but I haven't measured to know exactly where it falls. It's comfortable, stable at high speeds, and very compliant in more challenging technical conditions... couldn't be too far off.
Adjusting: John gave me the bike tuned for street, full kit. He suggested opening up dampening 2 clicks front and back to start for off road under full kit, and then opening up some more as I dropped kit weight front/back.
On the desert trip my weight up front was fairly static, had recovery gear and spare water in tank pans, tools in the fender roll. When we first got off road I opened up 2 clicks in front to start, eventually went to 3 to smooth out some of the high speed washboard and suck up some of the bigger stuff in the bonier sections better. In back 2 clicks open with full kit was right on. Had some play time somewhat unloaded with just the spare fuel on the back and opened up another 2 for rough stuff, then closed it back down 1 for long stretches of higher speed graded.
I might dive in and add just a hair more preload, and play with a wider range of dampening. I need a long weekend in Tahuya to play in the single track with the kiddo!
When I picked up the bike it was load free, we checked the sag and I was just over the top of the range. With daily kit I'm just under the top of the range, and with full kit I don't feel like I'm really under sprung but I haven't measured to know exactly where it falls. It's comfortable, stable at high speeds, and very compliant in more challenging technical conditions... couldn't be too far off.
Adjusting: John gave me the bike tuned for street, full kit. He suggested opening up dampening 2 clicks front and back to start for off road under full kit, and then opening up some more as I dropped kit weight front/back.
On the desert trip my weight up front was fairly static, had recovery gear and spare water in tank pans, tools in the fender roll. When we first got off road I opened up 2 clicks in front to start, eventually went to 3 to smooth out some of the high speed washboard and suck up some of the bigger stuff in the bonier sections better. In back 2 clicks open with full kit was right on. Had some play time somewhat unloaded with just the spare fuel on the back and opened up another 2 for rough stuff, then closed it back down 1 for long stretches of higher speed graded.
I might dive in and add just a hair more preload, and play with a wider range of dampening. I need a long weekend in Tahuya to play in the single track with the kiddo!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post