When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Assuming everything runs perfectly - except WOT - or snaps to WOT - from 6500 rpm in the upper gears, it is likely fuel starvation from float assembly fault or a fuel float level set too low , etc...
I have to read between your lines to guess that WOT is perfect and quite powerful in 1st and 2nd gear - as expected.. . But not in the other gears,, This would indicate fuel starvation..
It is best to not have to read between your lines - the more detailed and accurate your analysis, the quicker this gets fixed..
Ok.
WOT is perfect.
After another diagnostic run this morning .... bike starts up no problem. Definitely better than before. Bike is purring during idle at 1250rpm. When riding in 1st and 2nd gear i can get up all the way to 9000rpm. I feel the most power pre 6000rpm. In 3rd, I feel the power weakens up top. The bike feels its weakest In 6th gear and begins to loose power at 6500 rpm and has an 8000rpm cap at 74-77mph.
I just used a whole can of brake cleaner looking for air leaks. Bike never turned off. Although there was some strange activity near the header / exhaust meeting point. When we installed the slip-on, we removed the stock gasket (copper mesh + led material?) I called local Kawasaki dealer for the replacement gasket. They then proceeded to tell me a gasket would be unnecessary when installing the FMF powercore 4. Ok then...... I attached a youtube link of the brake cleaner being sprayed on the joint. You can see some bubbles bounce off but I dont know if thats air deflecting it or the high heat.
Overall I think your right about the float level. Thats the only thing I did not check when re jetting the carb.
Ok, you are running a PC4 and a lidless airbox with DJ140/K152 @ 1N , and a #40 Pilot jet with fuel screw at 2 out...
Snaps to WOT (any gear) from 4k rpm should pull hard to 10,500 rpm - the hardest pull should occur between 6k - 9k rpm. 9200 - 10,500 rpm is over-rev (a gentle slackening of power).
6th gear on highway should easily pull 9000 rpm - and up..
If your bike will not do the above, there is problems. I will need to know exactly what it IS doing.. For instance: How can you say "WOT is perfect" when you go on to say it won't hit but 8k rpm in 6th gear..?
Sorry for the delay. I know its been a few days but Sunday I dropped my bike multiple times up on Elephant Hill here in Los Angeles and pretty sure I broke the shift star. Parts should be here tomorrow. I went ahead and ordered a new float for the carb as well. Going to install and make sure I properly set the float. So until I get that fixed I wont be able to provide an update. Hopefully I can have something for ya by the weekend!
Ok folks, the end of the story for Don - he posted this on my "Dyno tuning with stock header... " thread - He found the vinyl nipple on the CVK had melted and was creating a HUGE vacuum leak. With this now fixed, he reports the usual results - "a whole new bike", power-wise....
Ok folks, the end of the story for Don - he posted this on my "Dyno tuning with stock header... " thread - He found the vinyl nipple on the CVK had melted and was creating a HUGE vacuum leak. With this now fixed, he reports the usual results - "a whole new bike", power-wise....
so after I found these air leaks I was only able to ride my bike for about 20 minutes before the ignition failed. I replaced that and finally got to enjoy new exhaust + jetting yesterday / today. Bike doesn’t bog down how it did before finding the air leaks. She pulls hard in the lower gears but my max speed has decreased from 90mph to 81mph. Is this common with the jet setup?
No, your top speed should approach 100 mph. The other recipe (for full exhaust system + lidless) will exceed 100mph.
You still have something wrong.
The bike should pull strongly until just over 9k rpm and then continue to 10,500 rpm with a reduced "pull" - in the lower 4 gears.
There is no "drawbacks" or "compromises" with the results of the using the lidless recipe. Get everything correct, and you get a better, faster, waay more powerful bike - that is the "common result" for the recipe..
Don' mean to go OT but 100mph on a klx? That' got to be a very optimistic indicated speed? Used to ride a ported and piped CR500 and that would only just to 100mph on the GPS and that has twice the power of most klx's.
85-90 mph is the most my SF will do and I know I'm tuned in pretty well.
Ride and ridden open class MX for years - top speed on any of them has nothing to do with HP, only gearing.
If you can't see over 90 MPH indicated, and you are near sea level with stock sprockets, you are not "tuned in well" enough. I did those speeds regular and often with the stock header recipe - I only personally rode up to close to 95 indicated with the full exhaust recipe - another member running the same ( obviously with better balanced tires) rode his to over 100 nmph and reported such here...
Last I knew, Rage, you were running your own flavor of gearing --- 13/39 I believe --- So, I think I've found your top end problem...lol
Actually running 15-39 right now but ive run a 13t and 14t . I guess im not hugging the tank or running WOT for miles. However all 3 setups run out of puff at around 135kmh indicated, with a bit of a tuck ill hit 140 eventually. Tried 1 step up on the main but theres nothing more in it. The 120/150 tire combo definately costs me some on the top end is what im thinking.
its also the bad aerodynamics , most "proper" supermoto bikes also top out at around 100 mph for that reason.
90 actual mph on a klx I can see but it takes much more power to do the ton on an upright bike
Last edited by RageHardIntoTheBendies; 08-03-2018 at 03:19 AM.
07-15-2018, 09:15 PM
