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Thanks. Shimming the valves looks like a daunting process for someone like me with little knowledge. I feel more confident cleaning the carb. Its def going to be a busy weekend for me. My exhaust arrives friday and plan on installing it along with the KLXster rejet setup I Im taking his advice due to the hybrid use of dyno jets / stock components and no drilling (no shade thrown at those who do).
Also Dpippin is a cool site.
If you have enough skill to do the carb you can at least check the valve clearance, if not to do the whole job. It is intimidating, but when you actually have hands on, it's surprisingly simple to do. It is just about being careful. If you can do most of your own maintenance work and the things like carb work, the valves aren't extremely difficult.
There is a shop manual that can be found on line. I found one for free, but forget the site. The 2006 and up will work for any engine work.
You will likely do very well with his set up. We did well with the set up developed by the first KLX250 riders. My brother went with a richer main jet where I went leaner while using a Dial-A-Jet enrichener system to fill in the lean spots, I'd used them on a KLX650 and a Honda Nighthawk S with great results. There are many paths to good performance.
Have fun with the KLX. It may not be the hottest thing out there, but it is solid and can be played with to be more than competent for a majority of us.
My personal goal, after finishing an addition to the house, will to be installing a 299cc kit, flat slide pumper carb, and an aftermarket 300 head pipe with a Pro Circuit reverse cone megaphone tail pipe. I want to pick up a bit more stuff that the 250 won't quite provide.
My personal goal, after finishing an addition to the house, will to be installing a 299cc kit, flat slide pumper carb, and an aftermarket 300 head pipe with a Pro Circuit reverse cone megaphone tail pipe. I want to pick up a bit more stuff that the 250 won't quite provide.
No, you're not.. You're gonna ask me what you should do to your KLX.. And I'm going to think about it for a while... then tell you..
BTW, for those of you that ride over 4000 ft of altitude in a given day, IDRIDR is correct in that you should get a Kouba fuel screw or similar - in order to keep your idle functioning.. Also, you must jet for the lowest altitude your bike will see. CVK's self adjust to higher altitudes but cannot compensate for lower altitudes.
Don, this may not apply to you but I want to make something clear here. An adjustable fuel mix screw has its place and this is not always a "set it and forget it" item. I regularly ride in a day from 4000 ft to 10,000 ft elevation. At the higher elevations, it has made an appreciable difference to lean out the idle circuit when running up high at the low-end of throttle input. I like my Kouba screw and used it (before going pumper), and the standard setting for me at 3000 is feet was a 35 pilot jet at just a little over 2.5 turns out. At high elevation, it would be turned to 1 to 1.5 turns out. A couple sharpie marks on it helped me find 2.5 when back down into the valley.
YRMV
thanks. very helpful for when I take this lil boi out to the desert.
Also want to thank everyone again for their patience and tips. I’m bad at following directions and that’s why I ask as many questions as I can to make it as clear as possible for me. I’m still new here and overall stoked on the klx.
on that note, can someone confirm the link in my previous post above? Are those the correct steps to remove the air injection system?
Someone with a California model would have to tell you. Most probably have the 48 state model where removal is simple and covered in D. Pippin's site. Pretty much remove three hoses, pull out "plumbing", and cap off the remaining nipples on air box, carb manifold, and the reed block. Some remove the reed block and put a block off plate in place of it. At one time I had some plates cut out of stainless and have a few left. I didn't bother taking the system off my KLX, didn't have the caps so I didn't do it. There is no performance gain other than the weight loss from the parts removed.
Don, you remove the Exhaust Air Injection System in order to stop the injecting of air into the exhaust.. Injecting air creates a "secondary burn " in the header whose intensity is based on the amounts of available combustibles. It is a emissions system that should not be allowed to operate with a performance CVK setup, especially a complete setup that includes fully a tuneable pilot system using a #38 or #40 pilot jet.
The link is a '09 Kalifornia model - should be a good guide for you..
I just completed the job. Did everything you told me to. (Install a #40 pilot jet along with the DJ140/K152, DN0228@1N (also super glued), on a stock slide spring and stock lift port). Along with a new gasket and float needle. I also removed the air injection system and plugged up the valves (airbox, carb, cam vent) using vinyl valve covers. Exhaust is turning blue near the header meet point. This normal with new exhausts? ..Ive attached an image below to share some insight.
i feel the power down low but when I hit 6500rpm in 3rd gear and up the begins to bog down. I set the fuel screw at 2 turns out.
Any suggestions?
Last edited by Don Tripas; 07-15-2018 at 12:45 AM.
Don, you didn't finish your post.. Nothing should be turning blue, if all is well and went well - So apparently, all is NOT well..
Power above 6500 rpm should be incredible compared to before.. Starting should be improved.. Idle should be perfect and @ 1250 rpm...Power ramping should be smooth and very strong compared to before..
So, the more you can tell me - the more information I have - the better I can guess about what's wrong..
Assuming everything runs perfectly - except WOT - or snaps to WOT - from 6500 rpm in the upper gears, it is likely fuel starvation from float assembly fault or a fuel float level set too low , etc...
I have to read between your lines to guess that WOT is perfect and quite powerful in 1st and 2nd gear - as expected.. . But not in the other gears,, This would indicate fuel starvation..
It is best to not have to read between your lines - the more detailed and accurate your analysis, the quicker this gets fixed..
07-11-2018, 11:26 PM
