As I don't have a kickstart on my 07 KLX250R I want to take a few steps to ensure the bike starts on the battery every time. One thing concerning me is the headlight being ON as soon as the ignition key is turned, before the bike is started. As I understand it, the headlight draws about 70 watts. I would prefer it if the light was not ON when I started the bike ensuring all available power from the battery is going to the starter when i thumb the button. Can anyone detail where I can fit a switch to isolate the headlight making it possible to turn the lights on and off at will. I'm planning some trips further out in the bush and feel this is a cheap mod that is worth doing seeing as I rely 100% on the battery charge to start the bike. I know that the cold can sap the power of a battery very easily. The outback and desert can get down to 0 oC and even freeze at night. I just want those first turns of the motor in the morning to count.

Advice taken from a mate who suffered a very similar problem that dogged his recent outback adventure. Solved it with cable ties, tape and a few bits of wire. I'd just like to do a more professional job.

Any ideas?

 

Plenty mate.

Do you want to ride at night?
I don't so I disconnected the high beam circuit by bending the lug on the bulb.
Now the high beam switch is on/off.

If you do want keep both beams, you can splice in a switch in the common return/ground wire that feeds the bulb.
Possibly using an in line type switch that could easily accessed and clipped to the wiring itself.

Or, you could get real flash and put in a circuit that either doesn't allow the lamps to come on until the motor is running or a circuit/relay that disconnects the lamp when the starter is pushed.
That way you still get the light on without the motor running if you need it, can be a good safety thing, but it allows all the juice to be made available to the starter as required.

 

I like the idea of putting on a switch also. I often thought about it, just too lazy to go do it yet. My reason was to keep the element off during my rides in the day so that it would not burn out the light...I have a Silverstar headlamp installed, but it is not anti-vibration as some of the even more expensive lamps are...and i figure if its not on, it is less-likely to break the filament.

 

One idea would be to use a switch like this.



All 3 wires go in one end and out the other with only the common wire cut and switced.
Just position it so you can reach it as required.

15 minute job.

 

Neil has the right idea========its free and if you bend the tab correctly you can bend it back and use the low or high beam circuit when you rebend the tab. Awesome idea Neil

 

Westoz

There is a fuse beneath the seat that is in-line with the headlight and tail light. I just snapped a few pics of it. Remove the seat and side panels. Then you will see two fuse boxes which should have a spare fuse in each. Slide the rubber seal down and snap open the fuse box with the red wire. The fuse connecting the RED wire is where you want to install a switch to. I just tested it myself. Disconnect the fuse in-line with the red wire and turn the ignition key on. You will see that your headlight and tail light do not work. Then when you re-install the fuse and turn the ignition key on, you will see both lights working again. Here's a couple of pics. I've been meaning to put a switch in there myself. Let us know how it works out for you. Good luck.

 

Idea

Objective - To disable the headlight until the bike is running and the light is to be switched on using only the standard controls.

Method - 1 double poled relay and 1 diode wired like this. $8 max.
(sorry for the hastie hand drawing)


Result - The light will remain off until a quick touch of the horn.

So, you jump on and turn the ignition on. The headlight will remain off until the relay is energised by pressing the horn button. Then the relay will latch on using its own contacts. The other contacts will operate the lights. The diode will isolate the horn when the relay is latched.

Its an idea.

 

great idea on the relay latch.
THe fuse thing is a hassle if you ant to flick the light on in an instant.
I just pit a switch on the ground on a DRZ I had. Been meaning to do it on the KLX, but not there yet.

 

I agree, switching the earth return wire is the way to go.
All stays up the front end.

My latch idea just negates the need to mount a switch.

 

Is it that simple?
If I trace the common earth from the H4 globe back some, (I assume there are three wires into the globe, 1 live for low, 1 live for high, and the common earth,) then cut the wire and install a simple switch inline, I'll get the desired effect. The ability the turn off both low and high beam at will. Gives me the option to start the bike without the lights running when the switch is in the off position.

Thanks for the fuse idea KDXMike, but I'd like to keep it all up front so I can fit the switch on the side of the headlight plastic.