351 plus TM36-68 Eee Hhaa!
Let me clarify something. If jet sizes are equal the amount of fuel they flow should be equal. The difference between a 33 and 36 is the amount of air they can flow. Area of a 33 is 854 mm and 36 is 1017 mm or about 15% larger. That isn't exact because the slide lessens volume.
In my opinion hill climbs have greatly improved with the larger carb.... It will still climb like a tractor if you want it to, but the little bit of extra response really helps get up the loose stuff. Its also crap loads better for squrting over obsticals on the trails.
This is an awsome thread! I have learned alot. I have been to alot of classes in mechanics, but they dont teach anything concerning carbs anymore. (and im a diesel mechanic, so nothing on carbs here)
I do have a question. Is there an advantage of getting a new carb with my stock displacement? I would love to have the bb351 kit, but money and time are a limiting factor.
Thanks...
I do have a question. Is there an advantage of getting a new carb with my stock displacement? I would love to have the bb351 kit, but money and time are a limiting factor.
Thanks...
David: Thanks for a great response! Appreciated and helpful.
I disagree on this.... I have a stock bore 06 KLX with TM36-68 pumper which is mostly used for dirt. I have been running this carb for sometime now... its properly jetted and I havent had to touch it in months.
In my opinion hill climbs have greatly improved with the larger carb.... It will still climb like a tractor if you want it to, but the little bit of extra response really helps get up the loose stuff. Its also crap loads better for squrting over obsticals on the trails.
In my opinion hill climbs have greatly improved with the larger carb.... It will still climb like a tractor if you want it to, but the little bit of extra response really helps get up the loose stuff. Its also crap loads better for squrting over obsticals on the trails.
Feral Donkey I was at 132 main and 35 (stock) pilot with the stock CVK carb. DJ kit needle on the middle clip. I had a few misfires around 6500 rpm but am not sure why. I am thinking the slide was hanging up or not responding the way I expected. Once I get this back together, I will know more.
Moto Pro fork valve kit showed up today. This is my Saturday off, so I cam work on the bike all day if I want.
David
Hey David…. Also forgot to say thanks for the pics of the return cable….. My return cable has the 90 degree bend which yours doesn’t look like having which is why I cant get mine to fit.
Off the top of my head my jetting is…………
17.5 pilot jet at around 1.75 turns out, this was half way between the too lean + too rich stutter (I tried a 15 but couldn’t get the too rick stutter and couldn’t get it to idle perfectly).
P-06 needle jet (P-08 was to rich)
9EBY01-50 in about the middle position (also tried the stock needle but was too lean)
130 main… Tried a 125 and 127.5 but the 130 was the best at WOT.
o yeah I am also at sea level with FMF full exhaust, no air box lid and backfire screen deleted and ride on the gold coast QLD AUSTRALIA which is nice and hot and humid for a good part of the year.
Like I said in the FCR thread I think I get about 170klms – 180klms to a tank (that would be completely empty) when mostly on the black-top….. (for all you USA folk that’s about 110 miles)…… probably get about half that in the bush. This is untested because I always fill her up after a ride and normally from a jerry can. I know I could get around 200 klms (125 miles) on the CVK carb because I hit that a few times before switching the carbs.
17.5 pilot jet at around 1.75 turns out, this was half way between the too lean + too rich stutter (I tried a 15 but couldn’t get the too rick stutter and couldn’t get it to idle perfectly).
P-06 needle jet (P-08 was to rich)
9EBY01-50 in about the middle position (also tried the stock needle but was too lean)
130 main… Tried a 125 and 127.5 but the 130 was the best at WOT.
o yeah I am also at sea level with FMF full exhaust, no air box lid and backfire screen deleted and ride on the gold coast QLD AUSTRALIA which is nice and hot and humid for a good part of the year.
Like I said in the FCR thread I think I get about 170klms – 180klms to a tank (that would be completely empty) when mostly on the black-top….. (for all you USA folk that’s about 110 miles)…… probably get about half that in the bush. This is untested because I always fill her up after a ride and normally from a jerry can. I know I could get around 200 klms (125 miles) on the CVK carb because I hit that a few times before switching the carbs.
I have the original cvk, fcr35 and 36mm mik pumper for my klx. The cvk and 36mm were Team Green modified...what that means, I don't know but they run flawlessly. I use the cvk for muddy conditions and the 36 mik is good for hare scrambles type racing. The 36 has great power from mid to top and is good on the bottom. The fcr is the cadillac of the bunch as it is very responsive and has good pull throughout the power range...and it carburets well with less finickyness then the others. I don't have e-start so if you're hard on the gas, the bike is hot and you stall, you better know the drill and have a hot start...I didn't like the 36 in tight, summer time conditions. The 36 was listed as an upgrade for the stock klx300 on strokers site as well as the fcr and 33mm mikuni pumper. I had the 33 mik and it ran fine but ultimately didn't have the power or response of the fcr. I've ridden a stock 300 with a not well setup 36 pumper and it was horrendous. Huge flat spot from a blubbery lowend to mid and ran ok to topend. It seems with the improper jetting, the slower air velocity thru the carb caused the erratic running. Knowing how to jet a bike is key when messing about with these things.
When setting up any of the pumper carbs, the jets aren't all you need to dial in. When the accelerator pump starts and how much fuel it squirts affects the throttle response.
Ride on
Brewster
Ride on
Brewster


