Well so far I don't see any lack of oil damage. Pull the cylinder and check to see if the oil control ring is over lapped. (Bottom ring , the wavy one.) It should not be but very commonly it can over lap and be unnoticed.

I have a full machine shop at my disposal. If your cylinder needs a hone I will be glad to help. No charge just return postage.

 

Sphen, care to share with us the break-in procedure? Babied or ridden like it was stolen? It's too early to form conclusions but this could be an interesting data point/variable to consider in the break-in procedure debate. I split the difference leaning slightly towards the "stolen" side and so far so good.
So I take it that saying "puff of smoke" you meant that after the engine started, the smoke puffed, and then there was no more grey smoke?
I have had valve guide seals do exactly that. Had to replace them to pass emissions on my car. Very cheap part but PITA to change them and the puff was gone. While your head is off you might as well eliminate that possible source of oil to the combustion chamber.

 

Cylinder off. All rings are seated as they should be. gaskets all look fine. The cylinder sleeve has a small area of heat discoloration on the outside and low - on the part that extends down toward the crank case.

Concerning break in: after a few miles of going slow just to make sure, I drove it more on the aggressive side - not bat outta hell, but I subscribe to the more agrresive end of the break in spectrum in order to seat the rings.

Thoughts? Need a rebuild game plan.

One ither thing - when I flipped the head over to inspect, I forgot and let the buckets and shims fall out. Does anyone know what the factory config is i.e. which size shim goes on which side?

and yes just a puff of smoke Barely noticeable, which presumably is how this sneaked up on me

 

Those cam journals look pretty shinny, I don't remember exactly, but I don't think mine were 'shiney'.

 

DOH!!!!

You're going to do a trial fit of the buckets and shims and see where you're at. And then adjust shim thickness to get it right.

 

Just don't worry with the cam chain cause you're gonna lose the cam timing again pulling the cams out after measuring. Might cost you an extra half hour of quality garage time.

 

Showed the pics to a machinist friend today. He mentioned the valve seals as a possibilities like someone mentioned in this thread. Since I don't see any issues with gaskets or rings, current plan is to tackle the valve seals and, of course, order new gaskets and rebuild. Can I get an amen?

what do I need to know before tackling those valves? Special tools? Anesthetic? Gues it beats 700+ for a new head...

 

You'll need to fab a tool to compress the valve spring. Relatively simple job, with the right tools. Also check for excessive guide wear-does the valve have slop/wiggle when it is off of the seat.

 

Alright I'm going to get that going

still a little concerned about that patch of scoring onThe cylinder. With continued wear and break in would it be ok, or should I have it honed and or replaced? Would the rings no longer seal right if honed?

 

Bill took a look at the photo and wants me to send the cylinder in to determine if it needs to be bored another .010...stay tuned.