He'd really be better off to stick with his vid games. Talking down at someone's success....and it's nobody's business but the bike's owner how much money is spent. Period.

 

I can't help but think that a smoother tire would be good for a couplemore ponies. I think you've crackedthe 30+hp barrier, but just didn't have the right tire to hook-up properly.

I also think the FCRmight help you some as well...mostly on the high-end though. I've seen a guy crack 30+ will a rejetted CVK, but that was with aftermarket camsand a higher compression ratio.

You and me both! I do touring runs on this bike.

Nice work on the mods! It's nice to know the full potential of our machine, whether it can beat a Husky TE or not. I'm enjoying my 250cc just fine right now, but it's nice to have all of this info for the future.

Thanks

 

oooo that pic...... lol....

 

Dean and others.

The dyno chart presents a very interesting picture of the results of the mods so far. Where Brian's chart was a relatively smooth ramp up in HP with a nice, flat torque curve, the chart on my bike depicted a very different profile. Torque was also flat and a little under Brians, not much, just a few .00's, but it came on a bit sooner at just over 4000 rpm. Horsepower, however, began to increase sharply just above 4000rpm and leaped upwards at a 45 degree angleuntil it topped out just over 8000rpm. Again, Brian,s bike made power on a more gradual curve and seemed to get it's maximum a bit before redline. My experience tells me that the mods on my bike, although working well with the existing setup, can't really be realized without more ability to get air and fuel which will allow the engine to spin faster, (a bigger carb). Brian used a FCR 35. The Husky TE 250 uses a 37mm FCR. I'm not sure how far I will go here, but I am intrigued with the possibility of significantly more power if I will let the engine breath enough to move on up into the RPM range. If it's making almost 30 at 8,000rpm, I have to wonder what it will do at 10,500. If the existing profile is any indicator, the answer is almost scary. And then there is the question of what happens in the lower rpm range with a bigger carb. I don't want a motocross power band that gives up low end for killer power on top. Maybe there's a happy medium in here somewhere. I also reiterate, it runs like a banchee even now. As long as you're interested, I'll keep you posted along the way.

I'm trying to upload a photo of a the dyno run. It may not be readable, but maybe you can at least see the profile ramp I'm talking about.


[IMG]local://upfiles/3756/0086970164B848BFABC6DC4280FB1A5F.jpg[/IMG]

 

Definitely keep us posted, I love seeing this stuff!

On the power range and personal preference, I'd tend to prefer to keep the low end perhaps even at the expense of the high end. While the high end is great to be able to see just how high it can go as that's where the max HP number is going to be, in reality I'm rarely if ever up that high when I actually ride. But I sure use the low end a lot when I need to pop the front end up to clear a log or stream or something on the trail. But that's just personal riding preference.

You've done great work on your bike, Shadetree, congrats on the fine results! Definitely swap rubber for your next dyno run though if you do one. I think you'll see a big jump, even if you don't change anything else between now and then. I used a Kenda 761 and that tire is not very expensive and has a decent street tread that is dyno friendly. The sidewalls are stiff mothers though and my knuckles were pretty scarred up after getting it on. Ideally I'd like to have a set of rims to mount street tires like Garry, then all you'd need to do is a rear wheel swap which is way easier than swapping just the rubber.

 

I'm with you on the wheel's Brian. A few Okies are planning to do part of the Trans America Trail from Arkansas to Utah in a coupleof months. I hope to join them and I'd like to be able to easily swap from full knobbies to trials tires or good DOT DP tires as the ride dictates. That is one of the great advantages of the KLX. It's so versatile that we can do anything we want on them. Back in the day, we liked the idea of riding to an enduro, hair and hound ormotocross race, racing, and then riding back home again. The KLX is the bike we wish we had back then. Not that I really want to do that now, but the bike wouldn't be the limiting factor if I did.
I will see if I can post a photo of the guys I ride with, including the controversial KTM 520.

 

Oops! I guess I can only place one photo per message...at least until I figure this out.

[IMG]local://upfiles/3756/2217E3DE134C4EB69B7505E3234EC449.jpg[/IMG]

 

Another one.

[IMG]local://upfiles/3756/999F592FCDD1415EA19F349928CE643D.jpg[/IMG]

 

Shadetree, Definately keep the info coming. I'm fairly satisfied with the bike with the 14/48 gearing and TM34 upgrade but plan on going to a big bore this upcoming winter. While I'm inside the engine, figuredit would make sense to do the porting and cams at the same time. I would like to be able to go back to stock gearing since it's revving way too high to ride for long on the highway.

Thanks for all the info so far!

 

Definitely keep it coming.