spoke too soon. Hot starting isn’t working... it’s doing like I mentioned in the first post. Not wanting to stay running after running, shutting off, and trying to start back up 5 mins later. The hot start is worse for sure. I rotated the acr. I’ll probably end up removing it now. 😅

it might just be the idle adjustment. Should it be higher when it’s cold and settle lower when it’s hot? Meaning I need to turn it up some to keep it above 1000 hot?

 

Here is the text from Marcelino regarding the repositioning of the KACR:

"it needs to be turned 6-7 mm ( 1/4 inch ) at the edge counter-clock-wise as you look at the ACR .
This way it will be in the same position as it was initially . I put mine 8-9 mm more avanced , this way I´m left with a little more compression and my hot starting has improved a lot over stock position . Now y never have to crank more than a second for the bike to start ."

This all makes perfect sense. The exhaust cam has a KACR on one end and a sprocket on the other. While looking at the KACR end of the cam, the MCM rotates the cam clockwise 10°(which is retarding it), so the KACR needs to be repositioned counter clockwise AT LEAST the same 10° (or 1/4") to compensate. Marcelino recommends going a little more than 1/4" for even faster start ups...

I (and many others) did 1/4" on my bike and starts are instant - if you did the same, then perhaps your problem is not with the KACR... Again, the MCM is not experimental, if done correctly it is 100% effective/functional.

 

To test quickly for whether the KACR is causing your problems (or not) , simply pull the spring off of it (deactivating it) and see if your hot start problem goes away....

 

it seems to have been the idle adjustment. It idles pretty high at a cold start, but with the hot start or with the 5 min break it would get below 1k. I got it thoroughly heated up and bumped the idle up to solidly maintain 1500rpm. Hot starts easy and doesn’t stall out after the start up like it was even before the MCM. ACR Is probably okay. I have to admit, I think I may have rotated it more than I was supposed to. Just looking at how far the cam was actually moved, I’m pretty sure I moved it at least double that.

Has anyone mentioned more vibration from this mod? Maybe I just haven’t had enough seat time before the mod, but I feel like there is more vibration now than last week. Not dramatically more, just a seemingly noticeable difference. Seems like this would be expected though.

So, I’m running lidless, 13t sprocket, and MCM. I’m wanting to maintain or even gain low end torque. How much would the EJK help? From what I understand, a header wouldn’t help for the low end torque, but maybe a slip on like the FMF Q4?

One of my fun factors, this bike is all about the fun factors for me, is an all throttle front wheel lift. This bike is so close to what would be my perfect bike. Just missing that piece. Add that, and I might sell my KDX when I get it back together 😜

 

I'm sorry - I have mistakenly comfused/combined your modding with RIckybobby2's current modding - both yall have new EFI's and are doing/just done the MCM on them,, He already has a FMF slipon and the EJK fueler..

The MCM + 13 tooth primary has given you much more performance from 3000 rpm to 6500 rpm for almost no money invested.. You also now have the foundation to add parts and achieve the highest overall performance available without engine work. But to go to these next levels of performance, you're gonna spend money.

Here are your options now: (Other members know more about current EJK settings schemes than I do - Hopefully they will "chime in" here with a faster, better, way to achieve a good baseline EJK setup.)

Preface: Contact EJK - verify that they have settings for running lidless on various exhaust mod combos. You may find that their fueler for a BB KLX is a closer match. You can tell them your bike will see a 22% - 24% increase in power levels, from stock, at all points above 3000 rpm (capping at 8000 rpm for #1 below, but to redline with #2 below). You are looking for a good "baseline" settings setup - the EJK is easy to adjust and you can do the "trial and error" fine tuning, and with our help, it will be fun !

1. For a TRQ Monster (3000 - 8000 rpm Max power) : Add a FMF slipon, a EJK fueler, pull the airbox lid and set the EJK for "lidless running with slipon" but "add one" (toward rich) to the midrange setting(s).

2. For best overall power levels (3000 - 10,500 rpm Max Power): Add a full FMF or Barker exhaust system. An EJK fueler. Pull off the airbox lid and set the EJK accordingly - Perhaps the lidless running settings, as above, but "add one" (toward rich) to the midrange AND the top end.

 

Want to be clear, I performed the Marcelino Cam mod, but didn't touch the ACR are you suggesting that (this was on a 2019 FI model) that you should remove the ACR from the cam? My 2019 is difficult to start when cold, taking 3-4 attempts before it will light and stay running. So I am asking if removal of the ACR would improve that or possibly a battery with higher CCA? It doesn't seem to have the issue when warm. I'm going to put some rec gas in next fillup and see if that may have an impact as well.

 

Per my experience. The ACR is an unneeded appendage. But rather than remove it you could simply take off the spring and it will be disabled. I know after jetting the carbed bikes properly they would fire up near instantly and I even started my 09 KLX when it was 8°F temperature. I locked mine disengaged, I didn't have time and access to equipment to press it out. That was about five years ago now. No battery problems, no starting problems. I would think the EFI bikes would have no problem either. So pull the cam cover and remove the spring. If you don't like how it works put the spring back on.

 

Very weird. How hard do you run the bike, and have your valves been checked?

 

I just watched Engine Masters on Motor Trend channel. They did dyno testing to see if octane added power... It didn't. I've been running 87 in my 250 since I got it, no problem. The only thing that octane helped was if there was detonation, pinging. No pinging, no need to go to higher octane. I did run 91 or 96 octane in my KLX650 in the summer time, it would ping when weather was hot and I was running 87 or 89 octane. Knowing what I learned from this and a few other sources I will stay to the recommended 87 or go to the 91 octane on my KLX and XSR.

Click here for the the Engine Masters video: