I’ve read that on the forum. It wasn’t that hard to reposition, so I plan on keeping it. I was just curious if the positioning looked to be on par with what M had in mind.

I originally wanted to just do the intake timing, but I figured I’d follow in M’s footsteps. He makes a compelling argument with the thoroughness of his research and write up. Plus, if I have a warranty issue, I’ll have a better chance of the dealership not rejecting the claim in the event they were messing around with the head.

 

Agreed (on your reasons for keeping the KACR... ) I cannot remember in which direction the change is made..

Also, the MCM is not experimental. It is a "many years' old" mod with dyno proven results (see my comparison charts) and a large user base..

Just be sure to finish the job with a lidless airbox and the appropriate EJK settings - add in a "bump richer" in the midrange, from the standard lidless settings, for the MCM's fueling needs..

And don't forget to hang on tight (tighter than normal) !!!! Your first full throttle accel, in first gear, from 3000 rpm - 9000 rpm, is going to be "eye opening" !!!

 

Alright, I screwed up.

Cam timing to the crank. Is it as simply as to line up the top dead center mark on the crank and then line up the two cams to the head per the marks? What about ignition timing since it is two full rotations of the crank to one combustion?

 

Also, does this look right as far as exhaust cam timing goes for the MCM? Should have the cam in nearly the same place, correct? First pic is TDC with original timing, second is TDC with the sprocket two teeth clockwise and the cam slightly rotated counter clockwise to land in the intake hole.

 

Also, 😅

I've read where if you feel resistance, that is bad. Whenever my cam lobes go over (push the valve) there is some resistance, but it feels like the spring tension on the valve and not really binding. It kind of shoots forward whenever I go over the top of the cam. Anyone confirm this is normal?

 

Now I’m real confused. It appears to be getting resistance and I hear a mild pop at a different point. I watch the cylinder is actually close to BDC and the valves aren’t being pushed. The pop sounds like something in the lower end, but the best I can see, everything looks fine from the cam chain side...

 

pulled in my clutch and smooth as butter... the popping was the chain slipping on the counter sprocket (I have the rear wheel off and the chain is just sitting on the sprocket. The sprocket was making the tiniest movement at one or two spots in the rotation causing what felt like hanging. Any suggestion as to why? It’s in neutral.

 

Assuming the engine has been "locked down"at TDC (the crankshaft immobilized) during your whole MCM session, the second picture looks good for the exhaust cam..

 

I do not know what crap you are reading - or how you are interpreting it - but once the MCM is finished:
1.Turn over the engine by hand, listen/observe carefully..
2. Turn over the engine via starter, listen/observe carefully..
3. Reinstall spark plug and start to idle, listen carefully..
4. Once warm, rev engine a little, listen carefully.
If each test is passed, you're good to go !

 

It’s running well. No issues with neutral.

My impression so far is the exhaust note sounds better. I can’t tell much difference in 1st just around the yard. Maybe harder to stall? Not life changing but not bad. I’d say it’s worth it.