2009 Klx 250s not running as well after rejet?
#12
I did my initial 3-turns out while the carb was off. Then it was just a matter of tweaking the adjustments afterwards. You should be able to close it again and open it up 2-turns with the bit, maybe just a little harder to keep track on the number of turns. Try marking a spot on the bit to help.
#13
i have no idea how many turns out or in...i started out with 3 turns out....had to tweak it a bit after each modification...k&n, exhaust and different jets....
I did my initial 3-turns out while the carb was off. Then it was just a matter of tweaking the adjustments afterwards. You should be able to close it again and open it up 2-turns with the bit, maybe just a little harder to keep track on the number of turns. Try marking a spot on the bit to help.
#15
If your tail pipe & spark plug are very sooty, chances are it's running rich. Try repositioning to the 2nd or 1st groove on the needle. Does it surge 1/4 - 1/2 throttle while cruising? If so, try the needle; it worked for me.
#16
Messed with the air/fuel screw and have it turned 2.25 turns. It has better acceleration in the mid and high rpm range. Has a lot of popping when let off the throttle. I will try giving another quarter turn to see if I can dial it in. Also, put the lid back on and took out the snorkle. It was little louder then I wanted. I have yet to hear back from Dynojet to see what they suggest......
Last edited by Websurfing101; 05-01-2012 at 02:31 AM.
#17
Yep, sounds like it is too rich at half-throttle and up. May need to raise the clip, or drop the needle (whichever way makes sense to you). May do better with a step smaller main, too. The popping is either a loose exhaust connection, a too-small pilot, or, just a normal burble that is common in 4 strokes that isn't going to hurt anything. You did say the air entrainment system was blocked off and plugged correctly, right? Make sure the plugs are all air-tight while you're at it.
#18
I went with the Dyno Jet Kit #2152. (Stage 2) I plugged the smog equipment, took the air lid off and have a FMF Q4 slip on installed. I think that I might need to adjust the air/fuel screw because it feels sluggish and I might be running too rich. However, I wish that I installed an aftermarket T handle fuel screw adjuster because I really don't have any tools that will fit to adjust the air/fuel screw. Maybe I can buy a mini screw driver that will fit because there is no way to really adjust it unless I take the carb out again. Which, I really don't want to do, but I might have too. If that does not work, I might have to go down on the size of the main jet. It is sure a lot of work to keep tearing apart the bike to get it dialed in.
1. I concur with a previous poster who said to check the vacuum hoses from the smog equipment removal.
3. I set the fuel mixture per the instructions that came with the Kouba screw. I will try to be brief "T"-Handle FuelscrewAir/Fuelscrews . First off they say to not turn out the kouba screw more than 2 1/2 turns.....according to their instructions you run the risk of it vibrating out.
*The instructions say to warm the bike up thoroughly....and make sure the bike is idling well....adjust idle if needed.
*Turn the FS to neutral position 1 1/4 turns out.
*Slowly Turn the screw in until the idle begins to fall off....make note of the position then return screw to the neutral position.
*Slowly turn the screw out until the idle begins to fall off.....make note of the position.
*If the idle doesn't fall of when tightening or loosening, then you will need to consider a different size main jet.
They said that the best position to start is spot half way between the points where the idle drops off. I did this and my fuel screw is a hair more than two turns out. This also eliminated the popping on deceleration.
You might try it and see........should let you know if the jetting is close.
That's my two cents for what it is worth.
#19
I believe the problem is with the air/fuel screw not being dialed in right. I think that I was running too rich with 3 turns out on the a/f screw. It would run and drive, but it did not accelerate as well. However, I did not get any popping from the exhaust with 3 turns out. Now I have it at 2.25 turns and it has better acceleration, but has major popping during deceleration. I am going to try 2.5 turns later after I get off of work, to see where I am at on the dialing in process.
Last edited by Websurfing101; 05-01-2012 at 02:20 PM.
#20
i was never able to get rid of all the popping on sudden throttle release...it was more difficult to adjust the a/f screw with the lid completely off for me...when going down a steep san francisco hill on 2nd gear...i have a machine gun firing of popping...
I believe the problem is with the air/fuel screw not being dialed in right. I think that I was running too rich with 3 turns out on the a/f screw. It would run and drive, but it did not accelerate as well. However, I did not get any popping from the exhaust with 3 turns out. Now I have it at 2.25 turns and it has better acceleration, but has major popping during deceleration. I am going to try 2.5 turns later after I get off of work, to see where I am at on the dialing in process.