This is what Mike from Dynojet suggested:

"The lid must be installed on the airbox, just remove the rubber snorkel from the lid and reinstall the lid. With the Q4 slip-on you should be using the DJ124 main jet."

Any thoughts on this? And also have a KDX200 snorkle on order....

 

I had the lid off, HMF slipon, PowerBomb header, DJ124 and the 2206 kit. Lid on was too rich, snorkel or not. It was probably too rich with the lid off also, but I'm at 2500+ ft. Try it both ways and see what works best. You will probably notice a difference.

 

It is kind of funny that the guy at Dynojet told me to use a 124 main jet because of my FMF Q4 slip on. However, the instructions to install the jetting said to use 128 main jet, if you have an aftermarket exhaust? WTF?

 

Go with what Mike said. He knows his stuff. That's why he gets paid the big bucks...

I'm at 4700+ feet and had the KDX snorkel. Mike told me to do STAGE 2 on it with a DJ116, that was before I added a pipe. I trusted him, and the setup was right on the money!!! When I added my pipe, I was losing power between 6k and 8k RPM. Again, I asked DJ what to do... Mike told me to go out 1/4-1/2 turn on the fuel screw, and increase the main to a DJ120. Again... Mike's suggested setup was right on the money!

The instructions are very generic; more of a starting point for the vast majority. Just realize that there are a million combinations of pipes, air intake mods, and altitude, that all affect each other. I figured that I paid $50 for a set of jets and a needle... **AND** a resource for setup advice. The latter more than offsets the cost difference in the kit vs. individual Kawi parts.

 

I will go with what Mike says, but it seems that everyone else that I seen at about my altitude goes with the 128 main jet. I wish Dynojet would print out better altitude combinations in their directions.

 

this is how my current dj132 and kit, k&n, kdx snorkel, hmf, etc. set-up sounds and runs, video below...(posted this in my commute post)...the power and acceleration is smooth...but, have some popping at sudden throttle release...found out my speedo was 4 mph off recently...weird how it's increasing...tire wear?...8,000 miles of use on the tires...anyways...it can easily stay at 80 mph and cruise all day at that speed...if going against strong winds, it can still stay at 80 mph at wot...perfect conditions with wind on my side, hit 100 mph once (but, disappointed it was only 95 mph with the speedo error)...i'm under 150 lbs., but in full gear...no dyno, so this is the best i can explain my power difference....

Tuesday 7am Sunnyvale to Burlingame.mp4 - YouTube

 

Just finished adjusting the air/fuel screw to 2.75 turns out. I think that I finally have it close to being dialed in. The bike pulls hard through all the gears now. I think that I will ride it for a bit and make minor adjustments to try to tune out the popping from the exhaust. Final set up on the carb:

128 main
Needle 3rd clip position
2.75 turn outs on a/f screw
80 ft above sea level

 

Many have told me the popping is never going to go away completely with an aftermarket exhaust... including Mike from DJ. I'm not too concerned about it anymore, as long as everything else seems to be running right.

 

It is crazy that a quarter turn on the air/fuel screw can make a huge difference. I still might play with the a/f screw to see any differences in performance. When the bike is running rich, it does not have any popping in the exhaust. Wish there was a more scientific way of dialing in the jet settings at home.

 

was literally making millimeter turns on the a/f to get the bike to run and sound right...something would be off either at idle or higher rpm...basically started out at 3 out and slowly turned the screw in little by little...rode....turned in...rode...turned in and rode....it was a lengthy process for me because i was making such small turns..it's a carb bike...it's all mechanical...no computer chips to regulate all this...not as simple as flashing a chip for more fuel...