No kidding here.

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...removal-34276/

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...gnition-38139/

See it?

 

Have you tried bump starting it? If it does start does it run for any period of time?

 

I'm thinking that he changed the key, he did not install the resistor, it is not going to start.

From above link:
Johoff2 9:13 post wiring diagram indicates 6 wires.
Johoff2 9:38 post wiring diagram indicates 2 wires.

IDRIDR post above I can see 4 wires, maybe there are more under his fingers?????

As originally I posted, for 6 wires you should have a 3PDT switch.
On farther review, if you don't have a "park" you could use a 2PDT switch. And, you would only have 4 wires!

You will need a picture that is in focus to identify the resistor specifically, although I believe someone stated it is a 100 ohm.

 

Yes, it is 100 ohm. The cdi must see 100 ohm between the BK/W wire and ground to produce sparks.

 

Might as well get this over...
I should have used "One" in lieu of "You" at about 5 locations.
I should have used "further" in lieu of "farther".

 

OK GUYS>> I DID THE UNHEARD OF YESTERDAY!! BUDDY AND I PULLED ALL 18 Bikes out of the shop and it got cleaned from one end to the other. Along with new shelves. WAHOOO>> Looked on my KLX250's Shelf and found the baggie of the old fallen apart ignition switch I replaced.. looked like your pic was straight out of my hand because I taped the white rotor to the plate for test runs i.e. always on.. Well Guess what there is the 100Ohm Resister.. So today I am going to get the ol soldering gun out and remove the new switch tear it down and see what its working with and if need be solder the resister in.. Lets pray.. IF THIS IS THE DEAL YOU ALL ARE GODS!!!!!

 

For the record, I'm positive the switch can be a single throw UNLESS you are trying to keep the security measure. In the "off" position, a parallel circuit is completed so the CDI (as RayCor noted above) sees zero resistance. In the "on" position, the CDI sees 100 ohms. The resister circuit can be wired in so it is not part of the switch and the CDI always sees 100 ohms. That's how my bike is now. This can be done with a DPST switch most definitely, and perhaps even with a SPST switch.

Nathan - I hope you've found the problem! We're pulling for ya. If you cannot remove the resistor, head on down to Radio Shack and pick up a 100 ohm unit. I think mine were two for a buck (for a part that costs a few pennies).

edit. RE: "security" resistor....see how much safer your KLX has been? Security for sure!

 

Scott, on the OEM switch removal, I kinda hate to lose the fork lock. While it's hardly an ironclad guarantee for theft prevention, it's a nice security feature in many situations IMO. Yeah, I can stick a lock in the rotor or other similar creative measures to keep the bike from being easily pushed away, but that key lock is convenient. I kinda wish they still had the simple fork lock at the steering head that fit the ignition key so it didn't matter what you did with the original instuments or starter/key cylinder. Still, not the end of the world in any case. I'm just lazy.

Thanks for that headsup on the resistor. Anyone know around what year this started showing up on Kawasaki's? Just curious.

 

Thad,
Once the OEM switch and keylock were removed, I didn't miss them so much. The resistor circuit has a separate switch. Go ahead and try to find it. Good luck. And I use a rotor lock.

I've seen some video of thieves simply slamming the handlebar hard to break the lock. If they want it, they'll get it. Luckily, bike thievery isn't too terribly popular around these parts.

 

Is there any chance that someone could post up a copy of the OE wiring schematic so that I could see exactly what this 'security resistor' is supposed to be doing? Thanks much.