2006/07 klx2507h pro techs needed
Clutch switch is bypassed with home made factory clip/ harness, Kick stand switch is directly connected at harness - when i got the bike it didn't have a side stand switch it ran then.
What I need to do is disconnect the battery pos and neg test for ground between the blue coil wire and also separate the tach harness and the same thing. I would be pissed is the Tach is shorted out.
What I need to do is disconnect the battery pos and neg test for ground between the blue coil wire and also separate the tach harness and the same thing. I would be pissed is the Tach is shorted out.
I'm suggesting that he tries to identify if the coil primary circuit is shorted to ground. By disconnecting the harness from its components it's an accurate and simple method to do that. Because he says that his test light flashes very dimly when cranking it is very likely that something in the circuit(besides the ignition coil) is in effect 'draining' the available current from the ignitor.
I'm suggesting that he tries to identify if the coil primary circuit is shorted to ground. By disconnecting the harness from its components it's an accurate and simple method to do that. Because he says that his test light flashes very dimly when cranking it is very likely that something in the circuit(besides the ignition coil) is in effect 'draining' the available current from the ignitor.

I know you've replaced your switch because of the headlight replacement. What did you run into. I guess I've never had to work on the switch circuit even after many Kawasaki's over the years.
Scott, tell me about the security resistor. I haven't looked at the schematic, so please spoon feed me.
I know you've replaced your switch because of the headlight replacement. What did you run into. I guess I've never had to work on the switch circuit even after many Kawasaki's over the years.

I know you've replaced your switch because of the headlight replacement. What did you run into. I guess I've never had to work on the switch circuit even after many Kawasaki's over the years.
When researching for the KLR650, I found that some were similar with the resistor but older years didn't have it. So, if the keyed switch were replaced with another not equipped with the resistor, I could foresee a problem.
your kidding rite?? Security resistor?? I ordered a switch off of ebay as a replacement and had to adapt the wires to the original installed switch. I think however the bike did run after the new switch was installed at least for 2 months.
Please enlighten me oh wise one.
Please enlighten me oh wise one.


