2006/07 klx2507h pro techs needed

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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 05:50 AM
  #11  
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Needs a new key switch?
 
Old Feb 11, 2014 | 12:09 PM
  #12  
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Clutch switch is bypassed with home made factory clip/ harness, Kick stand switch is directly connected at harness - when i got the bike it didn't have a side stand switch it ran then.

What I need to do is disconnect the battery pos and neg test for ground between the blue coil wire and also separate the tach harness and the same thing. I would be pissed is the Tach is shorted out.
 
Old Feb 11, 2014 | 12:10 PM
  #13  
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Brand new Ignition switch
 
Old Feb 11, 2014 | 01:06 PM
  #14  
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I'm suggesting that he tries to identify if the coil primary circuit is shorted to ground. By disconnecting the harness from its components it's an accurate and simple method to do that. Because he says that his test light flashes very dimly when cranking it is very likely that something in the circuit(besides the ignition coil) is in effect 'draining' the available current from the ignitor.
 
Old Feb 11, 2014 | 01:22 PM
  #15  
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i am taking everyone's suggestions and going out to the shop today to try them. HUGE THANKS>> PLEASE KEEP THEM COMING> I WILL UPDATE ONCE I GET ANY RESULTS>
 
Old Feb 11, 2014 | 02:05 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Nathan
Brand new Ignition switch
Do tell more here. What kind of switch? You know about the security resistor?
 
Old Feb 11, 2014 | 02:28 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by GBAUTO
I'm suggesting that he tries to identify if the coil primary circuit is shorted to ground. By disconnecting the harness from its components it's an accurate and simple method to do that. Because he says that his test light flashes very dimly when cranking it is very likely that something in the circuit(besides the ignition coil) is in effect 'draining' the available current from the ignitor.
Yeah I had a similiar problem with my xt225, turned out someone put in the incorrect length fuse and it wouldn't sit flush in the housing, and I would lose ignition power and spark. On top of that he has bad battery connections and a wire shorting against the frame.
 
Old Feb 11, 2014 | 02:33 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by IDRIDR
Do tell more here. What kind of switch? You know about the security resistor?
Scott, tell me about the security resistor. I haven't looked at the schematic, so please spoon feed me.

I know you've replaced your switch because of the headlight replacement. What did you run into. I guess I've never had to work on the switch circuit even after many Kawasaki's over the years.
 
Old Feb 11, 2014 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TNC
Scott, tell me about the security resistor. I haven't looked at the schematic, so please spoon feed me.

I know you've replaced your switch because of the headlight replacement. What did you run into. I guess I've never had to work on the switch circuit even after many Kawasaki's over the years.
The 2006/07, and likely others, have a resistor in the keyed ignition switch apparently for security reasons to reduce the likelihood of hot wiring. I replaced my keyed switch with a toggle and was sure to keep the resistor. It's not altogether clear in the wiring diagram.

When researching for the KLR650, I found that some were similar with the resistor but older years didn't have it. So, if the keyed switch were replaced with another not equipped with the resistor, I could foresee a problem.
 
Old Feb 11, 2014 | 02:46 PM
  #20  
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your kidding rite?? Security resistor?? I ordered a switch off of ebay as a replacement and had to adapt the wires to the original installed switch. I think however the bike did run after the new switch was installed at least for 2 months.

Please enlighten me oh wise one.
 



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