Dude your exactly right,,, I mean I wanted the WR250 but at the time price was an issue,,, Im happy with my KLX, but heres the thing your right about lemmons, every company has them,,, But heres the thing, MAINTANCE MAINTANCE MAINTANCE,,, thats whats its all about,, If everyone did proper maintance there would be less problems but thats just my Theroy

 

fair enough mate.

 

I have an 09KLX250s you say trouble of buying mods thats half the fun and im sure my KLX with mods sounds alot better than a stock WR250R. As for how long it takes it took me about an hour and a half to replace the full exhaust header pipe included and install the dyno jet kit in the carb also replace the intake snorkle with a kdx snorkle and thats with a 2 year old running around my feet. I am a tech at a kawasaki dealer but the 2 year old slowed me down lol! I would buy the kawi just because where I work but Ive looked at boath bikes and I think if you want a 50/50 dual sport buy a KLX if you want a 70/30 dirt/street buy the WR. Also your saying you would buy a WR and leave it stock! maybe at first but the first time a modded KLX or another bike in this category gave you a good run you would mod if you had any money left remember my bike is still $500 cheeper with the mods I have done. Try running a stock WR with a KLX with a 300/331/350 big bore thats what $500 extra could buy. If you compare price sorry but the KLX will almost always come out on top not trying to take anything from the WR but no matter what you do it is still going to cost you more but thats just my opinion all that matters is your out riding in the end.

 

Well I thought I'd dredge up this old thread to give a little perspective on using the N1TC and Keihin jets with lid ON ( He later corrected his initial mistake of listing lid off) and full exhaust.. While he doesn't make the power I have (altitude?) at this point - He is very rich ( Actually way too rich.) with his carb setup.. Far richer than my DJ136 and DJ needle 5th notch down with stock #35 pilot - near sea level with lid off..

He went down to a K135 main and clip on 4th notch down and reported better performance - I guess with the lid still on...

My DJ140 and #40 pilot jet will be in this weekend - testing will ensue.. With lid off, of course..

 

Now that you've dredged up an old thread and I've read it for the first time, I wanted to comment on my experience. I have a 2011 KLX250s (and a 2009 KLX250s). My friend, whom I ride with a lot, has a 2008 WR250R.

I rode his WR on a trail last month that I've ridden my KLX on a lot. I felt 'beat up' after riding his bike, compared to mine. Part of that of course, is just not being used to his bike. It felt like it had better suspension, but the taller seat height, combined with that off/on throttle lurching that's so common with EFI bikes (my 2014 Ninja 300 had it, my 2014 Ninja 650 has it - every EFI bike I've ridden has it - although I've read a PowerCommander V with tune on the Ninja 650 smooths it out) - this made the transition from off throttle to light throttle (which there is a lot of in the tight woods trails we ride) very jumpy - my arms were sore after riding. Again, I think a big part of it is just not being used to the bike, but I was really turned off by the experience. Also, apparently virtually every 2008 had fuel pump failure. His failed on our first ride out into a tough set of woods trails, so we ended up having to push his bike back (uphill for most of it) most of the way out of the trail (turned out once the fuel cooled down a lot, the pump would start working again, so it eventually started back up and he was able to ride the rest of the way out.) The dealer wanted $400 for a new pump, but he found a new one on eBay (that's still working) for something like $50.

I think the WR is a 'better' bike overall - maybe not worth the extra $, but in the end I don't think a 'better' bike for me.

Only problem I've had on both of my bikes is once I've got over about 75KM on a tank of gas, it will sometimes stall out - switching to reserve doesn't help, but stopping for a minute or two does (almost like it's not able to fill the float bowl quickly enough or something). At the 75KM point, there's still about 1/3 tank of gas left. Luckily, the trails we ride aren't far away, so we just always fill up before riding.

 

rgmr250, how are your bikes set up - exhaust?,lids?, carb setup?

Your altitude (900-1000ft) is similar to mine..

 

They're both: Dynojet kit, 128MJ, 3rd clip, snorkel removed (lid on), FMF Powercore 4 exhaust.

Oddly, the stalling/dieing problem only seems to happen on the road on the way back from the trails.

 

Ok, standard stage 2 then.. That is the way the kit was designed to be used.. The dynojet jetting specialist insisted I leave the lid on with the kit.. I wonder how much power that produces..

My power curves are superior to the charts in this post so I'll keep on keepin-on..

 

Big OOPS here.. Notice the notation at the bottom of the WR chart (and the top of which can be seen at the bottom of the KLX chart) - where it says "Speed (mph)"... Notice my charts all show "Engine Speed (RPMx1000) ...

Charts based off Speed and Engine Speed are not comparable - they are different calculations that produce different charts - they cannot be compared.. What I remember is that one or the other produces bigger numbers for a given run - The owner/operator of the shop I use showed me - after my run was complete - how he could give me charts on either or both and how the numbers change.. I think I remember "Speed (MPH)" having superior numbers... But all my other charts were "Engine Speed" so that is all I was interested in ... FYI..

 

Question: Assuming that both charts covered the same RPM ranges (let's say your ran up to 10,000RPM, and this chart went to 80 MPH, which happened to hit 10,000RPM as well), then wouldn't the 'peak' HP/TQ figures be comparable? I know that everything else in the chart isn't comparable, but the peak should still be the peak as long as you pass through the same RPM ranges in both dyno tests?

On that note, I know that 'peak' ratings don't tell the whole story - it's more the area under the curve, how the curve looks, but if we're looking for a baseline comparison, peak is a place to start.