Hi ,

I have a Kawasaki ninja 500r and I was trying to clean the carb float bowls of fuel as a step for winterization. I let the bike warm up and while it was running, I turned the petcock off. However, the bike didn't turn off. Even after waiting for 30 mins. Is there something wrong with my fuel petcock or am I missing a step here?

Thanks

 

Nuz, I would think there should be some drain screws (Phillips) on the bottom/side of the carb bowls. Probably some drain "nipples" too, on the very bottom of each. Use some spare fuel line hose connected to nipple, one at a time, turn screw, bleed into a catch-can, tighten-to-snug; don't over-tighten. Fuel efficient bikes like the 500 can idle seemingly forever....

 

When the gas is shut off there is still plenty in the fuel lines, can take a long time to burn it off. If you suspect an issue with the petcock check to make sure it stops flowing in the off position. Follow Jeff's advice for draining the bowls, running the engine wont get them dry.

 

Hey guys. Thanks for the replies. So I don't have to wait for the engine to shutoff until i can drain the float bowls? Also, how can I check if the fuel is flowing while the petcock is off?

 

The hose should come right off at the fuel tap nuzzy to verify tap leakage. You may also check into installing a fuel filter between the tap and the carbs. The pre-screen in the tap only stops just so much.

As mentioned above, just drain the bowls into a container if it will fit in there. I found that using a plastic or rubber tube over the nipple and running it outside of the bike into a container works best for me. (standard 5/16" fuel line)

 

+1^ Dragone. I use one of those Drag Specialties small, clear inline fuel filters with the replaceable element.
Nuz, nope; no worries on draining the bowls. Probably safest to do with the bike not running and cold.

 

The hardest thing for me now is getting those screws open to drain the float bowls. The screws seem to be stripped so I can't get any tool to fit in it to open it up and drain.

 

If the Phillips head is boogered, you may need to use a socket with an extension (if you have "straight in" access) or use a flexi-extension if you need to curve around things. I usually gently tap the end of the Phillips a couple times before I turn, just to help loosen the screw. (Notice I said "tighten to snug" above. Guys routinely over-torque....) If that doesn't work, time to get the needlenose pliers out.
If the screw heads are ruined, I would go to your local hardware store to the Hillman Fastener aisle and get replacements. Hex head cap screws tend to work well.