Got an '83 Spectre 550 with 1300 original miles. Bought in '89 with 700 miles and put 600 miles on in two years, then in storage for last 17 years. The only problem I had back then was difficulty with cold starts. I drilled a small hole in the airbox and would squirt a little carb cleaner to start in the morning. Recently pulled the head to change out a broken exhaust stud that was blocked by the frame. Also sent the carbs (TK) down to a guy in TX and had them completely rebuilt for $350. Its all back together now with new plugs, petchock, air filter, oil change, hypoid gear oil change, new battery, new vacuum lines, and gas line etc.
The engine turns over fine with good spark to all plugs. Verified timing and good resistance to all coil pickup wires. The secondary coil winding resistance is 8 kohms instead of the 12 to 16 recommended. Trying to start with choke all the way out (fully chocked) with no throttle and the petcock on prime, as recommended by carb rebuild guy. Starter turns engine fine, but no start. Starting fluid in the airbox did nothing. Removed the #1 and #4plugs and put a SMALL amount of starting fluid in these cylinders directly, replaced the plugs, and got a few puffs out of the engine. It doesn't appear to be drawing gas, or much air, into the engine, and it is certainly not igniting it or getting the engine going. I have purchased a trickle charger and top off the battery overnight after every failed start attempt. A few general photos are attached. I would really appreciate advise from someone who has solved a similar problem or has a good diagnostic suggestion. Thanks in advance to those who reply.

 

That is a pretty large difference. My manual shows 10.4k-15.6k ohms on the secondaries. (kz1000)
So the Ignition Coil Inspection, pickup coil inspection and the IC Igniter inspections are all complete?

edit: Nice pics of some of the ride.

 

Slight correction, the manual range for the secondary winding ignition coil resistence is 10-16 kohms. Both coils tested at 8 kohms. The primary winding range is 1.8 to 2.8 ohms, with both testing at 2.0. The pickup coil resistance both tested at 400 ohms, within the range of 360 - 540 ohms.
The IC Igniter Resistence testing was high and low on some of the mail ignition coil connector tests, but the manual indicates that the reading should be "Measured with a hand tester 57001-983. A tester other than the Kawasaki hand tester may show different readings." All the resistences for the Male pickup coil connecter were within range.
As indicated previously, I do have spark on every plug and I have verified the timing is perfect. Coils run about $65 each new, but a new igniter runs over $500. I have seen some used igniters on e-bay for around $100 (quality unknown), but I'm not convinced it is the problem. Would you recommend buying a few new coils, or taking it to the local dealer to have them diagnosis the problem.

 

I agree with that thinking.

That is mentioned in the manuals. However, most quality meters do not vary by 2k ohms. So I would buy the coils firstly.

 

Do you believe that secondary winding ignition coil resistence being off by 2 kohms could be the sole cause of the bike not starting? Another question, the bike has the original vacuum switch valve. It is properly connected, but I have no idea if it is working properly. Is this just an emission control component, or could it effect the starting of the bike if it is working improperly?

 

Significant changes from spec on the coil resistance can show a U/S coil, but the only way to prove a coil is good is by substitution. It sounds as though your plugs might not be firing under cylinder pressure, so the coil is the obvious starting place.

Rob

 

Have you made sure that the float bowls are full of gas. I think there is a small screw in the side of the bowls that you can loosen and check for fuel presence. Make sure your getting fuel into the carbs before you go tearing into the ignition.
P.S., put the gas tank on it!