Well, I'm pretty much set on doing this mod. I've read the beginning many times and it makes sense. I've thumbed through most of the pages and I think most of my concerns are at ease. I guess my only two thoughts are what's the general consensus on modding the ACR? Seems like some guys have left it off but I'm going to reposition mine. Lastly mine is all set up nicely and jetted well for my current mods, FMF Q4, twin air, snkorkle removed and DJ stage 2 per instructions. I'm at sea level and it runs great upto 8k feet so far. Will I have to re jet?

 

Don't know about jetting with the lid on, but, I've done more than a few Dyno tests with lid off, MCM, DG-R/full FMF (megabomb+PC4) , and using the DynoJet kit - all at 500ft above sea level. See my mod list below.
Lowdown is that you'll need the #132 jet and the needle raised one notch from stage II directions. These settings will still be a little lean. Off idle torque rise is radically enhanced and upper rpm power is noticeably increased and extended further toward cutoff. The bike should pull wheelies in 1st ,with stock sprockets, on engine alone.
I repositioned my ACR but would probably leave it off if I had to do it again.

 

I took off my cam covers last week to check valves, whilst in there I removed the ACR spring, disabling it. No difference. Bike starts up fine. starter motor spins fine. Less low speed stalling due to compression loss.
My opinion, not worth the effort to reposition. It is a left over organ from the kickstart 300, maybe like your appendix.

 

Agree. Just remove the spring.

 

Hmm...I'm kind of 50/50 on this. I'm sorta kinda leaning towards disabling it but the auto tech side of me says run it, its there for a reason. Less low speed stalling definitely is a plus in my book.

I work in a shop so being able to press it off and on is no problem. I guess my feelings are making sure its positioned properly so it works flawless in all scenarios.

If I decide to "disable it" I'm sure there are various ways. Should I remove the spring and lock it out? Or can I just leave it off the cam completely?

 

Either one will work. if you have the tools to remove it then that is the best way. If you don't remove it completely it is a much faster process since the cams do no need to be removed and less likely for something to go wrong when reinstalling the cams, like not getting the torque proper on the cam caps.

 

I'll just take it apart and see what happens. I've also got a manual tensioner ordered and I'm due for my valve check. I was going to bang it all out at once. I'm thinking I might cheat and remove the spring if the valves don't need adjustment but I have a feeling I'll be pulling the cams. I get a slight tick at idle sometimes and to me it sounds like a valve clearance issue so we'll see...I wanted to install the manual tensioner before making changes so I eliminate that rattle first.

Can't wait to get a little more braap in first and second. Hows high RPM cruising with the mod? Some times I fly down the freeway at 8-9k for a long time. Hope it all works out well.

 

It's a different bike with the mod for sure. But since the power peaks around 8200 rpm you would be just wasting revs any higher than that AND the power drop off is sudden.
I don't typically run it that fast anyways, but if I put the 15 front sprocket on I can still get the highway speeds just lower rpm. And with the mod it has a little extra power to be able to make use of that 15 tooth.
I just removed the spring on the acr and haven't had a single problem although I swear at idle I can hear it rattle slightly...like a slight tick sound. It's not a valve tick sound. Hardly audible and it hasn't gotten any louder. I did the mod about 3000 kms ago and it's working great still as well as the manual tensioner. No noise from it since

 

The mod doesn't lower the RPM of the horsepower peak, it's still about the same. For whatever reason the Japanese tend to have the red line on the tach above the actual horsepower peak. In this case it's about 1700 rpm above.

As said, anything above the roughly 8200 rpm peak horsepower is over reving, but not harmful - otherwise Kaw would have a legitimate red line. It's useful for highway speeds and to do a slight over rev when you need just a bit longer to a corner and a shift would actually be slower than over reving - common motocross and road race stuff, not often done when playing around or street riding.

 

Sweet, I don't really try to operate the bike above 8 or 9 k just because I feel its useless but when trying to cruise on the highway above 65 or 70 you have no choice. Also I totally agree with the off road thing. If I'm in sand or a hill climb and need to grab another gear I'll ride out the rpms more so the next gear doesn't bog down. Its definitely nice being able to ride the revs out sometimes.

Has anyone on here actually changed the ignitor and seen an improvement? I know I've read on here and other places that the timing advance really limits things past 8k or so.