Well, I did it! Both exhaust and intake. Took longer than it should....note to self : once you read the instructions...try following them lol. Anyways, I ended up one tooth off twice and had to re do. I only turned the crank by hand so no damage was done.
I also installed the Moose Racing jet kit. So I started with the 128 main, 3 down on the clip and it ran smooth but didnt seem like I noticed any HP difference. I took out the stock snorkel. Then tried without it completely. The transition from idle to WOT seemed smooth but just not a lot of pull. So I went to the 124 and that seemed to have woken it up a bit. I`ll keep playing with the jetting as time allows. I`m running with snorkel off for now.

The last thing I did was installed a 15 tooth front. Very nice with that extra grunt. Sounds and feels more like a thumper Cant wait to try it with the 13 tooth.

I did notice a little more exhaust pressure from the tail pipe....I guess a new exhaust is next.

 

Good to hear. I'm looking forward to doing mine someday soon

 

Well, we got to Michigan for some riding, but I fell off in the extremely soft deep sand trails and broke my ankle before we got to actually play.

I didn't have problems keeping up with my brother in acceleration. His bike is an 06 with jetting done (including 300 needle), Dial-A-Jet to "smooth out" the jetting flat spots (which it did), 220 snorkle, and a full 300 pipe, running a 13/42. I had shimmed the needle, richer pilot, shim on needle, and Dial-A-Jet with a 13/43 gear. I also outweigh him by probably at least 40 lb.

The starting has been phenomenal, even after dumping the bike and having gas run out the overflow. Normal starting the bike doesn't spin more than a half second cold or warm, no throttle and only choke when cold. I honestly don't believe there is really a need for the KACR. Until it is freezing again I won't be positive on that, but I'm betting it will work fine there too.

Clearly the MCM worked fine, as does locking out the KACR. Not sure which does more for cold and hot start, but my bet is on the locked out KACR being of the main benefit. Although, the retimed cam may be of more value since I don't totally understand cam timing in relation to engine operation and performance when ti comes to this much detail. I can only parrot what I've read and learned from those who know, like Marcelino and Joe Minton (who did a similar retime on the Honda Nighthawk S, taking it from 133 degrees to 108 degrees, actually losing HP at the top, but gaining power all through the power range up to that peak).

I do have a miss at around 6000 up. I did the ground modification, wiring in a ground wire on the rectifier and grounding to the engine case where there is another ground. I know it's working, the miss is elsewhere.

I think I need to redo the jetting. The stock jetting with the intake opened up apparently is WAAY lean, too much for the Dial-A-Jet to compensate for. When doing 6000 rpm with the light missing, if I reached down and pulled the choke (an enrichener) open, it would smooth out - it was running lean.

So I am going to go to the 300 needle, set it as my brother has his and go one or two richer on the main jet, since the whole thing worked on his bike and the Dial-A-Jet filled in the lean spots (as their instructions and claims mention it will, they recommend jetting in, then dropping 2 sizes on the main). Get the jetting in closer, but still to the lean side, to allow the Dial-A-Jet to work.

Once this is resolved, then I can add the pipe and see how it works for me.



But it still ain't my 650 on the road! THAT is power! Of course it ain't my 650 off road either, I'd have damaged myself much sooner riding a 375 lb 650 that is top heavy in the sand conditions we hit. Probably would have had a hernia from having to pick it up so often. Only had to pick up the 250 twice... unfortunately one of them was after it pancaked my ankle under the side of it. I think it was under the left side number plate/cover, doesn't take a lot to over-rotate an ankle, even with boots. Fact is both times I had to pick up the bike were in the same sandy conditions within less than a few hundred yards of each other. It was the worst conditions I've ever ridden in. Dakar my ***, give me good old fashion eastern Ohio dirt, mud, and clay!

 

Too bad your spill prevented you from comparing your cam-modded bike to your brother's bike more. What about the seeming power drop off at 8000 rpm or so? Are you experiencing that?

I emailed Thunder Products and I guess there's something Loon wants to talk to me about after I asked if what he would send me in the Dial A Jet package would cover my bike in both configurations; 250 & 331cc..


I put a Webcam in my XR200 over that last few days, which required pulling the engine out, and that's got me ready to do the cam mod-which will be a piece of cake in comparison

I want to wait until my new magnetic speedo driver arrives so I can know my k/ph and be able to test both the cam mod and one other surprise mod I may spring on members once I get it sorted out


Get Well Soon

 

Yes, but I expected that. The horsepower peak is still right around 8000 so it is expected to have that drop. It will rev past, but better to shift. I will be installing the higher gearing just to see how it pulls there. I have a 16/39 and time to see what it takes to fit the 16 now...

 

And I'm happy to report it works. Does it make your bike a fire breathing monster, no but it definitely improves on it.

I'm now running, kdx snorkel, 128dynojet, needle clip second slot from the bottom, with a modified stock muffler. With 13/42 gears I wasn't able to easily lift the wheel in first gear stock, after the Marcelino Mod I can lift the front wheel easily in first gear. I went back to 14/42 gears because I'd rather slip my clutch a bit in tight going then losing the longer legs on the street.... and I can still wheelie off the throttle in first gear.

Easiest way to describe the difference::: My wife has a Super Sherpa, stock geared, rejetted. I have always found that the Sherpa had much better low end response and snap ( admittedly not the same top end but much better low end). After the mod I would rate the KLX with the stock gearing the same as the rejetted Sherpa.


ps. I tried to run without the airbox lid, but even with the cam mods I found the intake honk annoying, kdx snorkel and all is well. This is probably how I'm going to leave this bike, no big bore, no fancy pumper carbs, no expensive muffler, just how it sits, modified stock. Likely the way it was designed to run before the epa crap got mixed into the equation.

 

I think I`d still like to try to open the exhaust. I can tell that its puffing out quite a bit of pressure. Not sure if you noticed that.
Funny....I set my bike up like yours at first and it ran horrible. I guess that's the difference of being at only 33 feet ABSL. You can run it richer.

 

I actually removed the teeny tiny exhaust tip on the stock muffler, and put on an ebay end cap. I also have a dg -r with a quiet insert and its way to loud. I also didn't notice any seat of the pants between the dg and the unplugged stock muffler. I'm normaily at about 400 - 3000ft absl.

 

wow i wish i knew you were coming up
could have rode with the club

 

My brother mentioned contacting some guys he rode with up there a year or so back when riding the Honda 230. We just didn't quite make it - rather I didn't quite make it.

You might have kept us from getting into that kind of terrain. I know if I had someone here in Ohio I certainly would recommend against going into some severely muddy terrain. Stuff that would essentially make the bike near impossible to ride. At least I'd think you would.