You have to use the correct method to make that float check - don't put the carb upside down, roll it toward upside down and stop just when the float closes - set it to 15-16mm. Mine is set to 14mm, with no issues, but I'll reset it to 15-16 if I ever go back into it..

 

Hey 2006, where in Canada are ya?

 

Hey, I'm in KW area, I was speaking with you in private chat about riding with the ODSC guys! I ordered a bike camera too so if I can get this jetting right should be some good riding come spring.

 

So I am supposed to put the washers on top of the e clip, between the e clip and that white castle thing? That makes no sense, how are they going to stay there..

 

Also, I have a bit of a dilemma. I didnt properly document where each part was from. Stuck with this bad boy.. I think it comes from the hole where the main jet came out of but not 100%

EDIT= FIGURED THIS ONE OUT . Still need some guidance on the washers and the fuel mixture screw. For now, I am just putting the washers on top of the eclip, between the eclip and the white plastic castle, as per dyno jet instructions..

 

And finally, what is the best setting for the air mixture screw? 2.5 turns from seated?

 

Yes, washers on top of the clip per instructions.
2.5 turns out may be okay, but to get it 'best' you really need to tune it properly. With the bike warm and started, lightly seat the mix screw. If the bike dies, turn the idle screw up a little and re-start until it will idle with the mix screw in. Then turn the screw out (noting number of turns) until idle increases then decreases, then back in. Find best high-idle position and this will be close to 'best.' Should be between 1 & 3 turns out. If <1 turn, pilot jet is too large; get a smaller size. If >3 turns, pilot is too small.

If needed, adjust the idle screw to your preferred idle speed.

 

Sweet, thanks man. I got it all back together, just need to get it back on the bike and see if it starts.

I really wanted that kouba t-handle mix screw, but $50USD is not worth it. I got the oem part from kawa for $13 CDN at a dealership. I'm just going to buy a slot screwdriver that fits it perfectly, cut it so it can get to the mix screw while the carb is on the bike in proper position, and attach some sort of small handle using epoxy so I am able the turn it.

I did basically the same thing with my idle speed **** when the cable broke. Dealship wanted $86 for a new one..

 

If the carb has the standard pilot jet, 2.5-3 turns out (from lightly seating it) will be where you should be... If you have a larger pilot jet, say a #38 or #40, you will have to set the fuel screw midway between idle drops - start with 3 turns out, while idling and warmed up, slowly turn fuel screw in until the idle drops(leaned out) then turn out while counting the turns, until idle drops again (rich'd out) then back in to the midway point between drops..

It's a pain, but you only have to do it once.

 

Cool. Yeah, pilot jet is stock, has the Keihin star on it.

I checked my float distance the proper way you told me. It's about 17mm, maybe a bit less. I don't want to go bending it for 1mm. seems like it'll take a lot of messing around to get it down 1 mm. If the bike runs like **** I'll pull it apart again and do it but I think it'll be fine. Thanks again for all the advice. It's coming along, I've done a lot of annoying jobs on this bike this winter. still lots left