Exhaust Mod
#61
DRM - latest, up-to-the-moment findings with Houstons4's use and Dyno test/chart of the 2206 kit, indicate that, at your earliest convenience, please reset your clip position to the top (1N). You will need to super glue the washers together and rest them on top of the clip - as 1N is so close to the top end of the needle..
While you have a drilled slide on a stock spring, he is now running 1N with a stock lift hole and stock spring - he reports more everywhere over 2N+lighter spring.. His latest chart indicated some overfueling of the midrange and 1N is important to control this problem..
What you should notice is improvements below 7k in throttle response and power levels. There is also likely an increase above 7k as the overfueling could be causing a loss of hydrostatic pressure due to fuel depletion in the bowl from the overfueling. This is my take on the somewhat erratic AFR's on Houstons' bike, 7800-9500 RPM (on his latest chart).
Please follow the Dyno Testing thread on Houstons' bike as it directly pertains to yours.https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...klx250s-44229/
While you have a drilled slide on a stock spring, he is now running 1N with a stock lift hole and stock spring - he reports more everywhere over 2N+lighter spring.. His latest chart indicated some overfueling of the midrange and 1N is important to control this problem..
What you should notice is improvements below 7k in throttle response and power levels. There is also likely an increase above 7k as the overfueling could be causing a loss of hydrostatic pressure due to fuel depletion in the bowl from the overfueling. This is my take on the somewhat erratic AFR's on Houstons' bike, 7800-9500 RPM (on his latest chart).
Please follow the Dyno Testing thread on Houstons' bike as it directly pertains to yours.https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...klx250s-44229/
Are you now saying that I should change my current setup of 2152 DJ kit including DJ spring at 2N, 152, lidless, stock pilot jet and 3.5 turns out with a Q4 header?
Thx Kevin
Last edited by kshanks5; 09-13-2016 at 04:22 PM.
#62
Well no K.. Read carefully, these guys are not running the 2152 kit. They are running the DN0352 needle outta the 2206 kit. It has a totally different set of tapers compared to your DN0228 needle - so a completely different fueling curve.
Now, that being said.. If you are really, REALLY, "in sync" with your bike, go ahead and try 1N with your setup. See if you get subtle increases in throttle response and power levels below 7K. If midrange power increases, there will be a lessening of the "power hit" you get now 6.5-7k@WOT with an overall slight increase in the power levels 6.5-9k @ WOT..
Even if you cannot sense an increase, but still have what you had, you should leave 1N in your bike as it is going to provide better economy during "normal" riding..
Now, that being said.. If you are really, REALLY, "in sync" with your bike, go ahead and try 1N with your setup. See if you get subtle increases in throttle response and power levels below 7K. If midrange power increases, there will be a lessening of the "power hit" you get now 6.5-7k@WOT with an overall slight increase in the power levels 6.5-9k @ WOT..
Even if you cannot sense an increase, but still have what you had, you should leave 1N in your bike as it is going to provide better economy during "normal" riding..
Last edited by Klxster; 09-13-2016 at 06:16 PM.
#64
Your bog is a malfunction and requires troubleshooting. It is not related to your selection of jets, needles, springs etc.. Nor is it going to be fixed with a new set of them..
You were able to solve your bogging previously. You indicate that it has slowly returned over recent riding sessions.. It seems certain that there is a problem that is causing abnormal slide operation with your carb again. You succeeded once, where all others failed.. If possible, you need to succeed again.. I'd pay money to know how to fix "owner induced bogging/stuttering"..
You were able to solve your bogging previously. You indicate that it has slowly returned over recent riding sessions.. It seems certain that there is a problem that is causing abnormal slide operation with your carb again. You succeeded once, where all others failed.. If possible, you need to succeed again.. I'd pay money to know how to fix "owner induced bogging/stuttering"..
Last edited by Klxster; 09-13-2016 at 06:34 PM.
#66
OK K..
I have always suspected the choke mechanism.. If some bikes have a "leaky" choke seal/mating when in the closed position, additional Air and Fuel would be pulled into the carb during relatively high vacuum operations - one of which is the big TRQ ramp-up 5-7k @ WOT when running lidless with a lidless setup. Such a malfunction could/would also expose the wrong side of the diaphragm to carb vacuum - possibly also causing aberrant slide behavior as well as overfueling... I worry about this all the time - most recently when Houston4's dyno chart showed such a overly rich/over fueled stock bike.. In stock form, there is more vacuum at all times - allowing this hypothetical situation to wreak havoc on the fueling curve.. I have always wondered if this could have been PWJM's issue as he was able to cure his stuttering with really lean main jets - so lean that this hypothetical enrichening malfunction would have still allowed his bike to run well.. I have run enough Dyno pulls to know that my bike is not getting aberrant fueling from its' choke system. It responds to main jet and needle mods as expected..
The choke mechanism gets its' fuel from the starter jet.
P.S. If I am to ever create the correct needle for performance fueling our bikes, I will need to know about this stuttering/bogging issue. If you replace your carb - as others have done - please send me yours so I can figure this out..
I have always suspected the choke mechanism.. If some bikes have a "leaky" choke seal/mating when in the closed position, additional Air and Fuel would be pulled into the carb during relatively high vacuum operations - one of which is the big TRQ ramp-up 5-7k @ WOT when running lidless with a lidless setup. Such a malfunction could/would also expose the wrong side of the diaphragm to carb vacuum - possibly also causing aberrant slide behavior as well as overfueling... I worry about this all the time - most recently when Houston4's dyno chart showed such a overly rich/over fueled stock bike.. In stock form, there is more vacuum at all times - allowing this hypothetical situation to wreak havoc on the fueling curve.. I have always wondered if this could have been PWJM's issue as he was able to cure his stuttering with really lean main jets - so lean that this hypothetical enrichening malfunction would have still allowed his bike to run well.. I have run enough Dyno pulls to know that my bike is not getting aberrant fueling from its' choke system. It responds to main jet and needle mods as expected..
The choke mechanism gets its' fuel from the starter jet.
P.S. If I am to ever create the correct needle for performance fueling our bikes, I will need to know about this stuttering/bogging issue. If you replace your carb - as others have done - please send me yours so I can figure this out..
Last edited by Klxster; 09-13-2016 at 07:42 PM.
#67
More info please
Hey guys so I have a 2014 klx 250s. I just purchased a FMF power core 4 and a mega bomb. I would like to find a Pod filter but having a hard time doing so or should I just remove the lide and keep the stock filter??? I would also like to jet thebike after I install the upgrades. Does anyone know which jet kit and stage I should go with? I'm thinking about 6Sigma??
#68
Tad, you"ll need to buy the DJ 2152 kit. Then call DJ and buy a few more needle washers and a main jet - if your near sea level, you'll need a DJ144 main jet.
Throw on the FMF stuff, install only the DJ needle and the main jet. Put the needle clip on the topmost notch of the needle and two needle washers super-glued on top of the clip. Pull the lid off the airbox and put it in the attic - You now have around 24 hp and around 16 Lb Ft of Torque. This is the max power recipe with your FMF system and stock carb. Your next mod should be the Marcelino Cam Mod (MCM) - it's in our stickies..
Throw on the FMF stuff, install only the DJ needle and the main jet. Put the needle clip on the topmost notch of the needle and two needle washers super-glued on top of the clip. Pull the lid off the airbox and put it in the attic - You now have around 24 hp and around 16 Lb Ft of Torque. This is the max power recipe with your FMF system and stock carb. Your next mod should be the Marcelino Cam Mod (MCM) - it's in our stickies..
Last edited by Klxster; 09-20-2016 at 01:31 AM.
#69
OK K..
I have always suspected the choke mechanism.. If some bikes have a "leaky" choke seal/mating when in the closed position, additional Air and Fuel would be pulled into the carb during relatively high vacuum operations - one of which is the big TRQ ramp-up 5-7k @ WOT when running lidless with a lidless setup. Such a malfunction could/would also expose the wrong side of the diaphragm to carb vacuum - possibly also causing aberrant slide behavior as well as overfueling... I worry about this all the time - most recently when Houston4's dyno chart showed such a overly rich/over fueled stock bike.. In stock form, there is more vacuum at all times - allowing this hypothetical situation to wreak havoc on the fueling curve.. I have always wondered if this could have been PWJM's issue as he was able to cure his stuttering with really lean main jets - so lean that this hypothetical enrichening malfunction would have still allowed his bike to run well.. I have run enough Dyno pulls to know that my bike is not getting aberrant fueling from its' choke system. It responds to main jet and needle mods as expected..
The choke mechanism gets its' fuel from the starter jet.
P.S. If I am to ever create the correct needle for performance fueling our bikes, I will need to know about this stuttering/bogging issue. If you replace your carb - as others have done - please send me yours so I can figure this out..
I have always suspected the choke mechanism.. If some bikes have a "leaky" choke seal/mating when in the closed position, additional Air and Fuel would be pulled into the carb during relatively high vacuum operations - one of which is the big TRQ ramp-up 5-7k @ WOT when running lidless with a lidless setup. Such a malfunction could/would also expose the wrong side of the diaphragm to carb vacuum - possibly also causing aberrant slide behavior as well as overfueling... I worry about this all the time - most recently when Houston4's dyno chart showed such a overly rich/over fueled stock bike.. In stock form, there is more vacuum at all times - allowing this hypothetical situation to wreak havoc on the fueling curve.. I have always wondered if this could have been PWJM's issue as he was able to cure his stuttering with really lean main jets - so lean that this hypothetical enrichening malfunction would have still allowed his bike to run well.. I have run enough Dyno pulls to know that my bike is not getting aberrant fueling from its' choke system. It responds to main jet and needle mods as expected..
The choke mechanism gets its' fuel from the starter jet.
P.S. If I am to ever create the correct needle for performance fueling our bikes, I will need to know about this stuttering/bogging issue. If you replace your carb - as others have done - please send me yours so I can figure this out..
Thx Kevin
#70
This is just a "theory".. You being able to fix your bike with a careful carb re-do would seem to discount it as a possible issue with your bike..
I don't think your bike has the horrible stuttering - yet.. But if it does: I'd guess firstly, if while stuttering, the symptom does not alter when you pull the choke out a tiny bit, perhaps it's already leaking and effectively always out a tiny bit..?
Then if, while stuttering, see if you can modify the malfunction by applying a little "push" pressure or "wiggling"..
If this does prove to be an issue, I'd guess replacement of the plunger mechanism would be in order..?
I don't think your bike has the horrible stuttering - yet.. But if it does: I'd guess firstly, if while stuttering, the symptom does not alter when you pull the choke out a tiny bit, perhaps it's already leaking and effectively always out a tiny bit..?
Then if, while stuttering, see if you can modify the malfunction by applying a little "push" pressure or "wiggling"..
If this does prove to be an issue, I'd guess replacement of the plunger mechanism would be in order..?
Last edited by Klxster; 09-20-2016 at 08:59 PM.
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