Was that vid of the bike before the rebuild?

I am not a silicone nut when it comes to heads or the jugs. The proper gasket is cheap and is a consistent thickness (compression number wanted) after the proper torquing.

 

Video was after. Wandering idle. Sudden surges. Strange. Also it has a gasket too I just enough to the point where I was being told to add rtv. On that note, we DIDN'T rtv the valve cover and were getting bleeding on left intake side of valve cover. All new gaskets installed.
Side note, I've heard te ignition modules go on these bikes. Ours is shot. You had to smack it around to get it to fire up. Maybe that's a factor

 

Please help

cafd265b.mp4

 

hahaha, if the big F Hammer does not work, then it must be bad. I wanted to make sure that I did not offend you while saying that it sounded like shiot! I like to use silcone on the side buttons since they tend to seep oil from the covers.

How did the carb boots look? Everything clean and tight? Did you check the synch yet?

Is there a vacuum Switch Valve present on your ride? and of course are you comfortable with your timing after you re-installed the cams?

 

Try a thin layer of Permatex "Right Stuff" RTV. Highly recommended. Not cheap, but man, it REALLY works well.

 

Valve cover has been fixed with permatex rtv.

Vacuum switch and synch?
I know not what these are
I remember reading about a vacuum valve switch or something in that 340 pg service manual.

I would double quote but I'm
Doing this on my phone.

I'm very confident with the timing. Everything was marked and put back. Teeth were counted and all done at #1 tdc. I'm almost positive that the timing chain CAN NOT move / jump teeth on the crank while the head was off WITHOUT the crank being removed. I even tried to convince it to skip with the head off and it would not move so its back where it was before it came off.

But just look at that ignition box....
High voltage is being shorted around where the ignition module is by the battery. This must be causing the weak spark at the plugs. Pieces of metal frame to other pieces of metal frame / swing arm / battery brackets and things.

Not sure how to troubleshoot this. All plugs and wires are good and all spark when turned over.

 

The Kawasaki Clean Air System

quote from my factory KZ1000 manual for that year: Remove and inspect the air suction valves whenever the idle is unstable, engine power is greatly reduced or there are abnormal engine noises.

 

And which are the air suction valves lol. Outer butterfly's ?

 

Nice project you have going on there. I can't offer any advice though, sorry. My second bike was a sweet '81 or '82 KZ750LTD I picked up for $500 in 1986 from a guy heading off to war in the gulf. I rode it through 3 or 4 rear Dunlops before finally giving it to my father in law who then bobbed it. Keep at it!

 

It is that "T" cannister normally located on top of the valve cover that connects via vacuum lines to the airbox and to the #1 and #4 carbs.

Again, this is just something to check, "But just look at that ignition box....
High voltage is being shorted around where the ignition module is by the battery. This must be causing the weak spark at the plugs. Pieces of metal frame to other pieces of metal frame / swing arm / battery brackets and things" is an obvious issue.