I feel like whoring it up 2 (official new whoring thread)
asz- ya really need to post up all of this info on the 10r section bro. Good stuff.
I have not used a K3 AGV yet, so am unsure of the fit for me. I love my other AGV helmets though.
I have not used a K3 AGV yet, so am unsure of the fit for me. I love my other AGV helmets though.
The brake install didn't go as smoothly as expected. I got the old pads out and the lines off. New pads in hooked lines up to calipers then moved the stock master cylinder and put on the new one. Took at look and thought something looks off. Tried to put the lever on and it would not line up. I start looking at the master cylinder closer and notice they sent me the hydraulic clutch instead of the radial brake master cylinder from the zx14. So I sent the Ebay seller a pissed off message about sending me the wrong part. They say they will send out the right part right away. I went to UPS and sent back the clutch part. While doing this I also discovered the stock ZX-10 brake lever will not mount up to a radial master cylinder. So today I went out to a local shop that makes and sells some parts and picked up a new set of levers.

better picture

Not bad for 60 bucks. Comparing them to the CRG's I have they are very similar but you can tell the CRG machining is better quality as you can see some markings on the levers from the machining process on the new ones but 60 for the set you can't go wrong. I think I can easily sell the crg set I have for 60 and break even.

better picture

Not bad for 60 bucks. Comparing them to the CRG's I have they are very similar but you can tell the CRG machining is better quality as you can see some markings on the levers from the machining process on the new ones but 60 for the set you can't go wrong. I think I can easily sell the crg set I have for 60 and break even.
what a head ache this is turning out to be. So the ebay place got back to me saying they don't have the master cylinder in stock and will refund me the money plus the cost for shipping it back to them once they get it. I sent it back on saturday. I just bought another one off ebay so that 80 bucks I need to wait to get back. When I got the wrong one I bought a stock lever from cycler gear thinking it wasn't fitting just because my lever wouldn't work. Once I realized it was the wrong part I returned the stock brake lever another 48 I'm waiting to get returned me to me. The correct part shot arrive friday or saturday. A friend wants to buy the old CRG levers off me so I'm selling them to her for her zx10 for the price I paid for the new levers 60 bucks. That is a killer price for a set of CRG levers. On the bright side I've got 190ish bucks coming back to me I just need to wait for.
FWIW
Read a good article on proper brake piston compression. Open the bleeder valve on the caliper (to allow fluid to drain) instead of "pushing" the piston back in and the fluid back up through the lines to the master cylinder (like I've certainly done too many times to count.) The reason, is because brake fluid is hydrophilic and the moisture tends to collect behind the caliper piston. Get the old fluid out at the bleeder valve. There can also be very very small particles that get into the juice at the caliper in the seal area. You don't want to push them back to the master cylinder, because that can lead to m/c failure. (I always just thought it was due to the "new brake pad jinx.")
Of course, clean the caliper/rubber seals/etc. before you compress the piston.
If you're doing a major parts replacement like ASZ^, everything will be fresh.
Sounds like your 2 hour upgrade has turned into a real PITA; sorry to hear.
The levers look great, though!!
Read a good article on proper brake piston compression. Open the bleeder valve on the caliper (to allow fluid to drain) instead of "pushing" the piston back in and the fluid back up through the lines to the master cylinder (like I've certainly done too many times to count.) The reason, is because brake fluid is hydrophilic and the moisture tends to collect behind the caliper piston. Get the old fluid out at the bleeder valve. There can also be very very small particles that get into the juice at the caliper in the seal area. You don't want to push them back to the master cylinder, because that can lead to m/c failure. (I always just thought it was due to the "new brake pad jinx.")
Of course, clean the caliper/rubber seals/etc. before you compress the piston.
If you're doing a major parts replacement like ASZ^, everything will be fresh.
Sounds like your 2 hour upgrade has turned into a real PITA; sorry to hear.

The levers look great, though!!
FWIW
Read a good article on proper brake piston compression. Open the bleeder valve on the caliper (to allow fluid to drain) instead of "pushing" the piston back in and the fluid back up through the lines to the master cylinder (like I've certainly done too many times to count.) The reason, is because brake fluid is hydrophilic and the moisture tends to collect behind the caliper piston. Get the old fluid out at the bleeder valve. There can also be very very small particles that get into the juice at the caliper in the seal area. You don't want to push them back to the master cylinder, because that can lead to m/c failure. (I always just thought it was due to the "new brake pad jinx.")
Of course, clean the caliper/rubber seals/etc. before you compress the piston.
If you're doing a major parts replacement like ASZ^, everything will be fresh.
Sounds like your 2 hour upgrade has turned into a real PITA; sorry to hear.
The levers look great, though!!
Read a good article on proper brake piston compression. Open the bleeder valve on the caliper (to allow fluid to drain) instead of "pushing" the piston back in and the fluid back up through the lines to the master cylinder (like I've certainly done too many times to count.) The reason, is because brake fluid is hydrophilic and the moisture tends to collect behind the caliper piston. Get the old fluid out at the bleeder valve. There can also be very very small particles that get into the juice at the caliper in the seal area. You don't want to push them back to the master cylinder, because that can lead to m/c failure. (I always just thought it was due to the "new brake pad jinx.")
Of course, clean the caliper/rubber seals/etc. before you compress the piston.
If you're doing a major parts replacement like ASZ^, everything will be fresh.
Sounds like your 2 hour upgrade has turned into a real PITA; sorry to hear.

The levers look great, though!!
Post up that link Jeff. It probably states to bleed from the m/c bleeder firstly as well, then the right leg caliper next and then the left? Because of the hose routing?



