I posted this in gen. tech..the thread on the carb. that holds the throttle cable plate in place has broke off. i used cold weld epoxy to put it in place and it worked fine until i put my carbs back on and it broke off again. maybe i was a little rough placing it back on, don't know. is there another way to put the thread back on? here's some pics of what i'm talking about.

 

when the cast the carb bodies, they usually cast them all alike. you may be able to swap out 1 and 4 (to keep the jetting the same)

i just serviced a 98 gixxer today, and the carbs are ALL the same.. theres 2 small solenoids mounted to the bottom of #1 and #3.. well, i put the one on #4 by accident today.. the holes on the float bowl were already drilled and tapped for this solenoid bracket.. just unscrewed it from #4 and moved it to 3..lol.. easy..


you might have it that easy as well. the bodies ARE cast, so welding them is a *****.. especially cuz they're insanely thin.

if you DO manage to get it welded or tacked on, it'll be soo warped it'll probably throw off everything in the carb that moves.


you have a few options tho.

1. make a bracket that assumes the role of this broken boss, and affix the new bracked securly to the valvecover, tie rail for the carb rack, or whatever else you can find. i loves me some angle iron of thin flat stock for this type of fix.. easily manipulated, tapped and welded, if need be.
2. buy a new (or used) carb
3. attempt to drill the hole deeper and use a longer screw (eh.. don't suggest that unless you know there alot of meat there..)
4. attempt to TIG the boss back into place (and hope it doesn't trash the carb)
5.swap the 1 and 4 carbs.

the 2 and 3 carbs are jetted differently than the 1 and 4 carbs. thus why i suggest swapping 4 with 1 instead of 3..

you'll also have to change the fuel line piping and butterfly shaft to operate on the correct side.

after a conversion, you'll absolutely have to re-sync the rack as well..

best bet might be a replacement carb, or fabricate a bracket mount up out of some thin angle and mount it up..

good luck!

 

the metal on the carbs seems light and soft. what kinda metal is this? my friend is a mechanic and he wants to know if it's weldable or not?

 

Not to sound harsh, but if your bud can weld, then he should now what is **** metal and what is weldable.

 

i was thinking the same too drag. i'm assuming you don't know either? i just put j.b. weld on it and it seems to hold pretty good

 

itscast aluminum.

JB might work, but surface prep is key, as it is with any metal bonding of any sort.


if it CAN be welded (doubtful..), i'd personally attemp a TIG with argon.. NOT helium.. helium burns hotter than argon does. small *** tungsten, 8 sec post-flow, about an 8 on AC balance, and as low a current setting as possible. like i said.. cast is a *****.. technically, you gotta pre AND post heat cycle it. post is a 100* drop per hour to ambient from 400*F or so...

just really watch the warpage on the carb body. if it tweaks even a little bit, the jet needle (attached to the vacuum piston) will not slide into the needle seat above the float.

oh, and i'd highly reccommend removing the float, needle, jet, and seal, and float needle seat screen (on back side of seat).

the screen is plastic, and if i'm not mistaken (might be, tho..) the float may be plastic? ..can't remember. but the other stuff will melt with the heat transfer from welding.

keep us posted bro!! goooooood luck on that..

 

the jb weld works well. just to be on the safe side, i fiberglassed the areas where it touches the throttle plate. solid as a rock.