Need pointers on removing rear tire
I bought a new tire, but Cycle Gear requires I bring in the tire after taking it off the bike so they can mount the new tire on the rim.
I need some quick pointers on how to remove the tire from the bike! I was planning to do this tonight, and now I find out the manual has nothing on this topic. [:@]
How many bolts are we looking at removing. Anything besides the axle bolts? I've never removed a tire from ANY motorcycle, so all advice is welcome.... thanks in advance!
I need some quick pointers on how to remove the tire from the bike! I was planning to do this tonight, and now I find out the manual has nothing on this topic. [:@]
How many bolts are we looking at removing. Anything besides the axle bolts? I've never removed a tire from ANY motorcycle, so all advice is welcome.... thanks in advance!
You only need to remove the WHEEL for Cycle Gear. (I buy lots of tires from them too.)
You'll need:
~a pair of pliers
~a 22mm socket
~a torque wrench
~a trackstand to elevate the rear wheel
(PSYCHE! The centerstand does this for you; this bike rules!)
And I recommend getting the factory service manual and supplement. The set costs a little more than $60, but it will quickly pay for itself when you're doing all this stuff yourself instead of paying some uncaring teenager with multiple facial piercings at the dealership to do it for you.
~First, elevate the rear wheel using that beautiful and convenient centerstand and clean it (the wheel) really well. Mechanics are like hookers: the cleaner your junk is when you bring it to them, the better service you'll get. It's easier to clean this wheel while it's still mounted because you can rotate it by hand while spraying and wiping.
~Next, remove the cotter pin from the axle nut on the left side and loosen that big 22mm Axle nut.
~Now remove that 22mm axle nut completely and slide the axle out to the right. It might go more smoothly if you slightly lift the rear wheel while doing this. Keep track of where the washers, spacers and little swingarm guides are oriented. You'll want to put them back on the same way when you've got a fresh tire on that wheel.
~Clean the axle and hardware and set them aside.
~With the wheel dropped, roll it forward a few inches (until it hits the crook of the swingarm) and lift the chain from the rear sprocket.
~Now wash the inevitable chain gunk from your left hand using either an abrasive or industrial-strength cleanser.
~Now gently remove the wheel while lifting the rear brake caliper from the rotor (on the right) and set that caliper carefully on the swingarm using the groove in the caliper holder which lines up perfectly with the little support bracket welded to the swingarm.
-Take the clean wheel to CycleGear and leave the guy who mounts & balances your tire a nice tip. While you're there, buy a little box of cotter pins which are at least 1 inch long.
~Installation of the wheel is reverse of removal. It is a PITA to simultaneously push the axle in while holding the spacers up AND holding the brake caliper in place, so it might be useful to stop at a liquor store on your way home from Cycle Gear to get a six pack to bribe your neighbor's kid.
~Torque that big 22mm axle nut to 110 Nm (Newton Meters) and insert a new cotter pin through that axle & axle nut (sometimes called a "castlenut" because the ridges cut in the nut resemble battlements in an ancient castle, through which French archers of the 14th century could rain arrows on beseiging enemy footsoldiers.

It sounds daunting to see all these instructions at one time, but after you've done it once, it is a piece of knowledge you will have with you for the rest of your riding life, and a greater appreciation for that magical machine you'll be burning tires up with.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Peace!
-CCinC
You'll need:
~a pair of pliers
~a 22mm socket
~a torque wrench
~a trackstand to elevate the rear wheel
(PSYCHE! The centerstand does this for you; this bike rules!)
And I recommend getting the factory service manual and supplement. The set costs a little more than $60, but it will quickly pay for itself when you're doing all this stuff yourself instead of paying some uncaring teenager with multiple facial piercings at the dealership to do it for you.
~First, elevate the rear wheel using that beautiful and convenient centerstand and clean it (the wheel) really well. Mechanics are like hookers: the cleaner your junk is when you bring it to them, the better service you'll get. It's easier to clean this wheel while it's still mounted because you can rotate it by hand while spraying and wiping.
~Next, remove the cotter pin from the axle nut on the left side and loosen that big 22mm Axle nut.
~Now remove that 22mm axle nut completely and slide the axle out to the right. It might go more smoothly if you slightly lift the rear wheel while doing this. Keep track of where the washers, spacers and little swingarm guides are oriented. You'll want to put them back on the same way when you've got a fresh tire on that wheel.
~Clean the axle and hardware and set them aside.
~With the wheel dropped, roll it forward a few inches (until it hits the crook of the swingarm) and lift the chain from the rear sprocket.
~Now wash the inevitable chain gunk from your left hand using either an abrasive or industrial-strength cleanser.
~Now gently remove the wheel while lifting the rear brake caliper from the rotor (on the right) and set that caliper carefully on the swingarm using the groove in the caliper holder which lines up perfectly with the little support bracket welded to the swingarm.
-Take the clean wheel to CycleGear and leave the guy who mounts & balances your tire a nice tip. While you're there, buy a little box of cotter pins which are at least 1 inch long.
~Installation of the wheel is reverse of removal. It is a PITA to simultaneously push the axle in while holding the spacers up AND holding the brake caliper in place, so it might be useful to stop at a liquor store on your way home from Cycle Gear to get a six pack to bribe your neighbor's kid.
~Torque that big 22mm axle nut to 110 Nm (Newton Meters) and insert a new cotter pin through that axle & axle nut (sometimes called a "castlenut" because the ridges cut in the nut resemble battlements in an ancient castle, through which French archers of the 14th century could rain arrows on beseiging enemy footsoldiers.

It sounds daunting to see all these instructions at one time, but after you've done it once, it is a piece of knowledge you will have with you for the rest of your riding life, and a greater appreciation for that magical machine you'll be burning tires up with.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Peace!
-CCinC
Wow. Very helpful Chris!! I have the tire off now.
Any pointers on what adjustments to make once I put it back? If I put everything back exactly where it was, will I have to adjust the chain or the tire alignment? I guess it's pretty easy to check the chain, but if the tire was out of alignment, how would I know?
Any pointers on what adjustments to make once I put it back? If I put everything back exactly where it was, will I have to adjust the chain or the tire alignment? I guess it's pretty easy to check the chain, but if the tire was out of alignment, how would I know?
Nice write up Chris.
Fizzit, you can do a quick visual of sighting down the chain to see if the chain is centered. Rotate the rear tire and see where the sprockets are at on the chain.
Fizzit, you can do a quick visual of sighting down the chain to see if the chain is centered. Rotate the rear tire and see where the sprockets are at on the chain.
Thanks for the kind compliments. The air is still too smokey for bicycling and there's a little too much ash on the corners to go carving, so I'm marooned at the keyboard for a few days.
Here's a nice description for getting your rear wheel alignment just right:
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryde...ntmethod.shtml
Some enterprising entrepreneur was making a killing a few years ago with a lazer-guided rear-wheel alignment tool. Makes sense. Which sounds more precise? "Strings are for kites; lazers are for BOMBS."
But if you pull the string tight, it will do just as good a job as a lazer and will cost about $180 less.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Peace!
-CCinC
Here's a nice description for getting your rear wheel alignment just right:
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryde...ntmethod.shtml
Some enterprising entrepreneur was making a killing a few years ago with a lazer-guided rear-wheel alignment tool. Makes sense. Which sounds more precise? "Strings are for kites; lazers are for BOMBS."
But if you pull the string tight, it will do just as good a job as a lazer and will cost about $180 less.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Peace!
-CCinC
Trying to put rear tire back on now and I can't figure out how to attach the brake caliper to the disk. Anyone have a photo of how it fits at the disk?
It doesn't seem to fit on anywhere. I looked at the front brake and it doesn't look exactly the same. [>:]
It doesn't seem to fit on anywhere. I looked at the front brake and it doesn't look exactly the same. [>:]
Thanks Dragonn, you are exactly right. A friend just sent me a photo of his caliper so I could see what it should look like. I pried the pads apart with a screw driver.
It's all put back together now. Unfortunately the rear brake does not work. [:@]
I can depress the pedal completely and there is no braking action.
It's all put back together now. Unfortunately the rear brake does not work. [:@]
I can depress the pedal completely and there is no braking action.


