I went ahead and changed my oil at 150 miles. 2 qts and a filter was only 10$ so I figured why not. There were some mettal shavings in the oil but I figured that was normal for a new motor. Anyway the book called for 2 qts of 10w40 so thats what I put in and it was right on the full mark while it was on the center stand. Is that how you guys check it? When I held the bike level while it was not on the stand and buddy looked and it was overfilled that way. After the change I had to get on it a bit. 7K rpms to keep up with trafic at 60 some odd mph. This little thing makes alot better power at those RPMs then the lower RPMs I was trying to stick to most of the time.

 

Just keep them rpms varied, and that engine will break-in perfectly. I believe 1.9 qts is the exact amount, but that extra 1/10 quart won't make a difference. And yeah, always check the oil with the bike level, preferably off the centerstand.

 

Metal flakes should be very tiny and even. Change the oilagain at about 1000 miles and there should be far fewer. I did mine at 500 and 1000 now at every 2000. Atthe third changethere were no detectable flakes soI went to synthetic.

 

You shouldnt run synthetic that early, you want the engine broken in at about 5K before going synthetic.

 

Question: Why the 5k mark? Not an engine guru, but once it is broke in, 20 laps lets say and things are bedded in, why not on the synthetic?

 

Rings are not fully seated for some time after the initial seat in during the first 100milesor so. Also the sticker break in can cause insufficent ring seal as well.

I haveheard anywhere from 3K to 8K break in before using synthetic. I still havent switched my 250 at 8K miles. My Katana has 9K and was run with synthetic too early but that was done when I got it.