Your thoughts on a tank sealer
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Junior Member
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 24
From: Shawano,WI
Jeffzx9 my oil leaks appear to be coming from the front 2 lower bolts on my clutch cover. I THOUGHT i had cleaned all the gasket material off the metal cover when I replaced clutch discs but i was wrong. My old gasket split appart with half on bike and half on cover ..not good...It is a slow leak so i was ignoring it until i had the fuel leaks corrected for obvious reasons lol ..now gas in tank and no leaks so i will drop oil from bike and clean the clutch cover again..going to have to clean carbs again i have flat spots all over the rpm range i know now i did not do a good job cleaning them I guess I was hesitant at first but at least i have a donor bike with a good set of carbs incase i break anything. Those things alone should keep me busy for the next coming weeks. Until then i contiue to ride my 99 zx9 to work ..weather is 80's life is good...
ZX9guy
ZX9guy
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,350
From: Clarksville, OH
+1^. Those cheap-o waxed paper things from the factory really suck, IMHO. Side cover gaskets are pretty easy. Lay your gasket material on a flat surface, lay the (clean/oil-free) side cover on top and trace the outline. For irregular surfaces, I'll lay the side cover down (gasket side up) and manually "press" the gasket sheet around the perimeter--making an indentation (i.e. pushing with my thumb on the sheet) to get the outline and bolt hole locations. (Sometimes, you need 3 or 4 hands!!) Or, if you have an OE gasket as a reference, you can just trace around it. Cut to spec. Use a paper punch for bolt holes--much easier.
Clean, clean, clean mating edge on the engine case......especially where the oil drips at the bottom. Light layer of goo on case and cover. Assemble and sandwich the gasket---GENTLY at first. I allow 15-20 min for the goo and gasket to get friendly--(equal parts superstition and good mojo.) Gently snug the bolts another turn or two. Another (beer!) Final tighten all bolts---do not overtighten and squeeze out all the goo.
Not trying to insult you with "Gasket 101." Some of the younger guys on here might benefit....
Let us know how it comes out.
Clean, clean, clean mating edge on the engine case......especially where the oil drips at the bottom. Light layer of goo on case and cover. Assemble and sandwich the gasket---GENTLY at first. I allow 15-20 min for the goo and gasket to get friendly--(equal parts superstition and good mojo.) Gently snug the bolts another turn or two. Another (beer!) Final tighten all bolts---do not overtighten and squeeze out all the goo.
Not trying to insult you with "Gasket 101." Some of the younger guys on here might benefit....
Let us know how it comes out.
Last edited by jeffzx9; Aug 5, 2013 at 02:11 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,651
From: Delaware, Ohio
1st Gear Member
I have NOT had good luck with DIY tank coatings. In time, they have come loose and contaminated the fuel delivery system. This has added at least four particularly vulgar adjectives to my already too colorful vocabulary. While the objective is too salvage the tank, after reading the warning label on most sealers, it is questionable if one would live to enjoy the tank after the sealer / coating is applied.
There is a fool proof [fool proof is good], cost effective method that won't endanger you or your potential progeny.
Take the tank to a radiator repair shop. They can boil the tank [without damaging existing paint finish] and apply a sealer. This coating doesn't let loose, and a will plug a multitude of pin hole leaks. The last tank I had done was a 7.5 gallon tank for a Kawasaki Concours, costing me 65 bucks for a boil, coating and a warranty.
Radiator shops are getting harder to find these days. They still do truck and heavy equipment radiators, check with a local truck repair shop for a reference if you can't locate one. Many quit advertising in the yellow pages as so many now have cell phones only. They service a narrow sector of society, you might need to call around to find one anymore.
There is a fool proof [fool proof is good], cost effective method that won't endanger you or your potential progeny.
Take the tank to a radiator repair shop. They can boil the tank [without damaging existing paint finish] and apply a sealer. This coating doesn't let loose, and a will plug a multitude of pin hole leaks. The last tank I had done was a 7.5 gallon tank for a Kawasaki Concours, costing me 65 bucks for a boil, coating and a warranty.
Radiator shops are getting harder to find these days. They still do truck and heavy equipment radiators, check with a local truck repair shop for a reference if you can't locate one. Many quit advertising in the yellow pages as so many now have cell phones only. They service a narrow sector of society, you might need to call around to find one anymore.
As you said most do truck fuel tanks and radiators due to cost of replacement. If it is possible contact a truck sales dealership and ask them where a fuel tank can be repaired. They probably know.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,651
From: Delaware, Ohio
1st Gear Member
Case gaskets should be installed dry. Don't use any kind of gasket compound, it may cause the gasket to get soft and squeeze out. I had that with my KLX650 inner rotor case. I asked my friend, a mechanic at a shop, who said put it on dry.
Super Moderator
1st Gear Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,350
From: Clarksville, OH
klx, thanks for the head's up. (I've always had good luck, I guess. No leaks, on any of those I've cut and replaced.) Does make sense, though....
But....I've had the "dry-fit" ones leak; that's why I use the goo. I'll stick with my method.
But....I've had the "dry-fit" ones leak; that's why I use the goo. I'll stick with my method.
Last edited by jeffzx9; Aug 7, 2013 at 04:56 PM.
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