2021 KLX300R future mods
#42
I realized another issue.... at 5'10", I can barely get my leg over the seat and, I'm tippy toed!!!
I've been looking at lowering links, but don't want to lower the front end. What next??
Also, Tooter, I think your the only one that replies, thank you.
I've been looking at lowering links, but don't want to lower the front end. What next??
Also, Tooter, I think your the only one that replies, thank you.
#43
You can safely lower the rear only as it increases fork rake and front wheel trail. A lower rear makes the bike more stable. There are various lengths of links to suit your needs.
What you never want to do is to lower the front more than the rear as it decreases front wheel trail and steepens fork angle. Search youtube for "death wobble" and you can see what happens.
If you want, you can lower the front about a half inch while retaining your stock bars.which is a good compromise. Just allow the fork tubes to come up to your bars.
I'm 5'5" and easily flat foot both feet with my knees bent with an unsprung seat height of only 30 inches. You can see the rear swing arm is almost parallel to the ground.
Here's a video of how motorcycles corner. While it's technical, it's also fascinating to see all the physical forces in play when we're riding.
Last edited by tooter; 08-13-2021 at 01:12 AM.
#45
When ordering links they tell you how much each size lowers your bike. You don't need to know how long it is.
This is the Koubalink chart.
I got the KLX5 links because I wanted my SM as low as possible. I also removed a lot of preload from the rear shock. When I'm sitting on the bike there is only 4 inches of ground clearance. A lowered bike is perfect for riding the winding canyon roads where I live.
It corners like an Formula 1.
For dirt riding you don't want to go that low.
Last edited by tooter; 08-13-2021 at 03:41 PM.
#47
Ok, this might be the wrong color... but it's all I had left.
I had the links cut with a laser machine out of 3/8" plate, then machined down to .325", sandblaster and painted.
These are going on after work!! Can't wait.
I had the links cut with a laser machine out of 3/8" plate, then machined down to .325", sandblaster and painted.
These are going on after work!! Can't wait.
#49
You have impressive fabrication skills!
Maybe a shorter link would work better for the softer off road suspension as longer links do give the rear swing arm more leverage over the rear shock. Had you tried adding more shock preload to compensate? It has a wide range of adjustment..
I went with the longest links and spun the lock rings way up because I'm a road rider. At 135 pounds I could hardly deflect the stiff SM suspension, so softer was a great improvement. The bike floats over road bumps and is really comfortable. I cut the kickstand and welded on a washer as a foot so the bike would still lean when parked.
Maybe a shorter link would work better for the softer off road suspension as longer links do give the rear swing arm more leverage over the rear shock. Had you tried adding more shock preload to compensate? It has a wide range of adjustment..
I went with the longest links and spun the lock rings way up because I'm a road rider. At 135 pounds I could hardly deflect the stiff SM suspension, so softer was a great improvement. The bike floats over road bumps and is really comfortable. I cut the kickstand and welded on a washer as a foot so the bike would still lean when parked.
Last edited by tooter; 08-19-2021 at 04:35 PM.
#50
My goal was 1" lower, which I got with the 130mm link. Maybe I'm just not used to it.
I also changed the rear spring to a Racetech and set the sag at 1", before the longer link.
I mainly ride off road. Thx for the compliment, I'm a mechanical designer.
I also changed the rear spring to a Racetech and set the sag at 1", before the longer link.
I mainly ride off road. Thx for the compliment, I'm a mechanical designer.