Won't start after cam mod

Old Oct 7, 2011 | 07:49 PM
  #11  
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+1 on putting it back together in the stock configuation. Read up on it more not much to be gained. Its all a trade off, you will lose top end and gain only a little in the mid.

To much trouble for the small mid range gain/top end loss. Save for the big bore kit.
 
Old Oct 7, 2011 | 07:50 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 2veedubs
Cam mod is essentially free. -1 on putting it back to stock. Post some pics so we can see your cam timing.
Have you done it to yours?
 
Old Oct 7, 2011 | 08:34 PM
  #13  
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So, I took it all apart again. Just like Brewster suggested, my intake valves are stuck open. So, really, even if I set it back to stock, its still fubared. How do I remove my valves? Head has to come off? Is there a way to at lease see wtf is going on from above?
 
Old Oct 7, 2011 | 09:03 PM
  #14  
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did u try turnin it over by hand at first to make sure the valves dont hit the piston... u could have bent the stems if u just hit the magic button in excitement to see it run ... lets hope not thats just yucky to even talk about

i was actually considerin this mod for my sf too; until this thread popped up

yea u have to pull ur head if u actually want to remove the valves, u may as well put a port n polish on the head if u got the time, probly worth more than the dumb cam mod anyways
 

Last edited by LikesToThump; Oct 7, 2011 at 09:13 PM.
Old Oct 7, 2011 | 10:35 PM
  #15  
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You can bend the valves fairly easily just by turning the motor over with a wrench at the crank on many models of bikes if you have the cams out of whack. Don't know if that has anything to do with the OP's issue here, but don't think turning a motor over by hand can't do some damage in some instances.
 
Old Oct 7, 2011 | 11:58 PM
  #16  
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i just assumed with the cam off and valves stuck open it had to be bad, or maybe i am misunderstanding wat he means by took apart
 
Old Oct 8, 2011 | 12:02 AM
  #17  
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man im sorry dude.. i would take off the head and look at the valve guides and valve stems and valve seats and do a from scratch head rebuild at this point
 
Old Oct 8, 2011 | 03:39 PM
  #18  
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You can most definitely cause damage to the valves by turning the crank with a ratchet too hard by hand. My intake cam sprockets were way off for reasons that I don't want to talk about. I never turned the bike over with the starter. So, people be careful, even when turning by hand.

On a second note, the damage done to my intake valves were in no way associated with the cam mod itself. It is 100% a product of my inexperience and this week after I change my valves, I will leave my bike with the Marcelino mod and report back.

We have such nice weather here right now too...I hate myself.

Peace
 
Old Oct 8, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by akarob
Have you done it to yours?
Yes, I did the cam mod in early July. It tranfsorms the bike, you also need to play with the jetting a little. If you compare the dyno charts in Marcelino's original post it shows definite improvement. The only reason I would go back would be installing the big bore. This mod has no benefit on 330-351.

Stock vs. Marcelino setup.

rpm-stock-Marcelino-Delta

3k. - 9hp. - n/a
4k. 9hp. 10hp. +1
5k. 12hp. 14hp. +2
6k. 16hp. 18hp. +2
7k. 19.5hp. 22hp. +2.5
8k. 18.5hp. 24hp. +5.5
9k. 16.5hp. 22hp. +5.5
10k. 11hp. 18hp. +7
 
Old Oct 8, 2011 | 04:37 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by RaceGass
+1 on putting it back together in the stock configuation. Read up on it more not much to be gained. Its all a trade off, you will lose top end and gain only a little in the mid.

To much trouble for the small mid range gain/top end loss. Save for the big bore kit.
The perceived loss in top end may just be the butt dyno feeling you come down off the 8k power peak. The stock setup drops more power from 8k to 10k than does the cam mod setup. 2 hp gain in the mid range is by no means small. The 5.5 gain at 8k is where magic happens.
 

Last edited by 2veedubs; Oct 8, 2011 at 05:13 PM. Reason: Typo
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