Turn off fuel, Pull the line off the carb in a safe place (not near fire or flame). Put the line in a jar or bucket or something to catch the gas and see the flow of fuel out the line when you turn the fuel back on. Try Reserve too.

It should run out pretty good. If not, go backwards and find the blockage.

David

 

This is my weakest understand of a carb. As This is the first bike I decided to work on my own with.

I don't understand if the float is there to help with idling circuit, main circuit or what.

I never touched the float when I changed the pilot jet. Maybe I hit it?

Taking the carb off today since it's my day off. Going to get one of those dial calipers you were talking about. Guess it couldn't hurt to have one around.

 

From What the Carburetor Does and How it Works

"Delivering gasoline to the carburetor

Gasoline is delivered to the carburetor by the fuel petcock and is stored in the fuel bowl. To keep this level of fuel stored in the bowl constant under all conditions a float system is used. A float operated needle valve and seat at the fuel inlet is used to control the fuel level in the bowl. If the fuel level drops below a certain level the float lowers and opens the valve letting more fuel in. When the float rises it pushes the inlet valve against the seat and shuts off the flow of fuel into the bowl."

If you bent the adjustment when re-assembling the carb it can cause some strange operation from fuel starvation to fuel running out the overflows.

Cheers,

J

 

Understand the float is my biggest weakness. I don't really understand how it all relates to the jets.

This should be my homework I guess.

Once I do some reading up, I guess I'll buy that dial caliper anyways. Can't hurt to have it around.

 

Absolutely amazing! Update

Stock klx250sf
TM36-68

Pump starts 1/4 throttle - ends 3/4

UltraApple cudos - had my friend look at the float and he said I might have hit it when I was changing my pilot jet a while ago. He readjusted that using a dial caliper I bought. Worth the $25 to make my bike run correctly. Somehow I had to much fuel in the bowl.

17.5 Pilot jet - WAS a 130 move down to a 127.5 - HUGE improvement top end

Fuel Screw out 2 1/2 turns.

Had a P8 and was at the leanest clip(Thank you Dave for making me pay so much attention to the needle jet) and it was still to rich.

Changed that to the P6 - way better mid-range!

Put the snorkel back on. Seems to idle and start much smooth. Don't understand that one cause everyone else takes that off and sometimes the lip. Tried it. Not for my bike haha

Overall how it's running. Amazing.

 

Looks like nothing but good news.

Glad to hear it and thank you for informing the rest of us.

David

Now that it runs like it should, what is the difference between the stock carb and TM36-68?

 

The hugest difference is the torque at low and mid range. Pulls much stronger off a stop. All the way up to when i normally shift around 7 rpms.

When I'm trying to be quiet at night, I have to drive up a hill to get to my house. The torque is nice.

Next would have to be how it shifts. Feels smoother with the extra power backing it up.

Horsepower is there to. Went for my first ride today on the highway and could feel the passing power.

Anyone who cares, the sounds. My exhaust has a lower tone. Not loud but comfortable to where it isn't boring.

Would it have been easier to just jet the CVK34 and have waited to buy the tm36 when I got the big bore kit? Probably. The entire process was worth the learning experience.

 

Congrats on getting it working!

If you change the exhaust to a less restrictive one you might be able to run sans the snorkel. I'm running a Leo Vince slip on pipe on my KLX250SF. On the other hand it sounds like its running perfect so I'd put some miles on it before more upgrades... (I never seem to do this though)

Cheers,

J