AFAIK not at steady throttle, only when there's enough throttle movement to actuate the pumper's reservoir diaphragm thingy in the float bowl. Maybe there's a bleed in the AP circuit to allow no squirt as the throttle opens slowly. (ahh I see it, the 'leak jet')

Revving it on the stand slowly past where the AP linkage starts actuating, it was still lean; but if I cranked the throttle fast then you get a pump squirt and it was at 11:1. So I guess the regular circuitry can be tuned by an easy does it approach.

 

This little gismo can help with your tuning
I use one at my shop for tuning
it is a on bike dyno
Veypor - Motorcycle Performance Intelligence

 

I've looked at the Veypor but haven't felt it's something I want to buy, as long as I can record accurately via other methods. It'd be nice to have one though!

 

I reduced my AP nozzle one size down to a 40 a few days ago, since it was so rich when the AP kicked in, and at the same time richened the needle a notch to 4th down because the a/f meter showed it was lean during easy roll ons at part throttle that weren't engaging the AP.

The bike is running much much better I think; having done two changes at once it's hard to pinpoint which worked the best, but I think those with the TM36 should try a 40 or 35 AP nozzle and see if runs better. Too rich is still down on power regardless of how or why it's rich, so if you can lessen the AP shot to just enough give you the helper shot the engine needs at quick throttle openings without it shooting in too much in you might find an improvement.

The AP nozzle that's in there is probably meant for larger cc engines, and leaning out the AP shot may give you added power as your a/f ratio gets closer to max power.

I think the nozzles are only $6.95 or so-get some nozzle O-rings while you're at it, because it's much easier to roll the new O-ring up into its position than try and remove the one that's on your nozzle now. Use a litte WD40 put the nozzle back into place to save abrading the O-ring

 

Turns out the CR9EK dual electrode plug is actually one step cooler than the CR8EIX that's in the bike. So it shouldn't have been running hotter with it in. Might have been my imagination as the heat comes back off the radiators.

That CR9 is so clean after the 10 minute ride including a WOT that I can't tell it from the other new ones that came in the pack. They say it's hard to read plugs when you're using ethanol..

I'll give the super plug another try again someday.

I'll probably pull the carb off to check float level and drop the pilot jet one size today. Maybe up the main jet a size as well. It's not cold starting with the choke as easy as it used to; maybe richening the needle a notch has affected starting mix.

 

A little more testing today found the 135 to be better than the 137.5; giving me a/f readings in the low 12s/hi 11s on 10% ethanol.

Sometimes you just gotta follow what the instrument is telling you..like when I'm scuba diving following my compass underwater and I think I am going in the right direction, but the gauge says I'm not

 

Testing out my newest timing technique; which is having a stopwatch mounted next to the throttle atop the RH mirror mount with its' Start/Stop button actuated by something clamped to the throttle.. I made some short sprints from a 12 kph roll trying it both with/without the big K&N air filter.

The difference w/o the filter was just .01 sec, so it appears the K&N is doing an adequate job of providing air.

 

Don't try this at home !



The full length (almost back to the slide) vertical divider was over 3 seconds slower as tested in the 36mm today!


I am certain I had it in there perpendicular to the slide, but it just didn't like the center divider at all.

The super glue did hold it in there tight enough that it didn't wiggle around at all once it set, yet a good pull with the pliers and it came out.


- I had soaked the carb spigot in gas repeatedly before installing the carb to make sure the super glue wouldn't soften, and it was still held in solid when I took it out.



Odd that when a divider plate is horizontal in the 40mm carb, it was almost as quick as without anything in the spigot; but when vertical it just throws everything way off slowing it so much.

The 40mm/horiz plate combo was a little slower because of the plastic holder being V-shaped at the bottom; reducing the true ID of the 40mm carb and altering flow characteristics.


I think I can locate the plate horizontally in the 40mm without the plastic holder at all, just a couple narrow strips of plastic between the plate's side edges and the carb walls creating a snug fit lit the orig holder did. The two locating ears and the carb's ID alone should hold it in place. Then I'll test the 40's performance that way before porting the intake flange a little.

 

Testing the 36 today with no inserts in its spigot, a couple sprints tried from 16kph instead of the usual 17 (couldn't quite hit 17 kph at the start) before I had to get ready for kidney dialysis netted times a few hundredths slower than the 36s previous 5.12 with the short (.5") middle vertical divider. I don't think the 1 kph starting speed differential made a whole of difference? but you never know I guess.

The third run was aborted after a giant wheelie following the 1-2 shift..

I have ordered a shift light from China today;- that combined with the throttle triggered stopwatch should make future testing effortless and very accurate, as once I see 17kph, I'll just hit it and back off of WOT when the light comes on the third time at the top of 3rd gear.



The stopwatch install is lo-tech but has turned out to be a very easy way of measuring performance changes. I am going to combine that with a shift light so I won't need to mess around with hitting my starting line at 17kph-just crank it to WOT when I see 17kph and off WOT when the shift light comes on for the 3rd time near the top of third gear.

 

If you could measure acceleration and factor in time over distance, top speed and overall weight, you could calculate power accurately(obviously you'd need precise sensors and data collection. I've been playing with a couple iPhone apps that do this, but the sensors and gps in the iPhone are not the greatest. There is a bmw m4(?) app that has produced repeatable results but you can not change the vehicle weight so the numbers are a bit offset. Interesting stuff...I dabble in vibration analysis at work, I'll see what accelerometers we have that might work in this application.