When I was looking at new tubes I ran into some that had a warning that perfectly good inner tubes loose air. Some loose a fairly significant amount like 3 lbs a week. I never realized that inner tubes were air permeable. I guess some are and some aren't.

Any thoughts or recommendations on inner tubes that DON'T loose air?

 

All tires lose air over time...even tubeless ones.

Nothing to worry about. Just check `em each time you ride. It's all part of T_CLOCS

T-CLOCS ITEM WHAT TO CHECK WHAT TO LOOK FOR CHECK-OFF

T-TIRES & WHEELS
Tires
Condition
Tread depth, wear, weathering, evenly seated, bulges, embedded objects.
Front
Rear
Air Pressure
Check when cold, adjust to load.
Front
Rear
Wheels
Spokes
Bent, broken, missing, tension, check at top of wheel: “ring”= OK — “thud”= loose spoke
Front
Rear
Cast
Cracks, dents.
Front
Rear
Rims
Out of round/true = 5mm. Spin wheel, index against stationary pointer.
Front
Rear
Bearings
Grab top and bottom of tire and flex: No freeplay (click) between hub and axle,
no growl when spinning.
Front
Rear
Seals
Cracked, cut or torn, excessive grease on outside, reddish-brown around outside.
Front
Rear
Brakes
Function
Each brake alone keeps bike from rolling.
Front
Rear

C-CONTROLS
Levers and Pedal
Condition
Broken, bent, cracked, mounts tight, ball ends on handlebar levers, proper adjustment.
Pivots
Lubricated.
Cables
Condition
Fraying, kinks, lubrication: ends and interior.
Routing
No interference or pulling at steering head, suspension, no sharp angles, wire supports in place.
Hoses
Condition
Cuts, cracks, leaks, bulges, chafing, deterioration.
Routing
No interference or pulling at steering head, suspension, no sharp angles, hose supports in place.
Throttle
Operation
Moves freely, snaps closed, no revving when handlebars are turned.

L-LIGHTS
Battery
Condition
Terminals; clean and tight, electrolyte level, held down securely.
Vent Tube
Not kinked, routed properly, not plugged.
Headlamp
Condition
Cracks, reflector, mounting and adjustment system.
Aim
Height and right/left.
Operation
Hi beam/low beam operation.
Tail lamp/brake
lamp
Condition
Cracks, clean and tight.
Operation
Activates upon front brake/rear brake application.
Turn signals
Operation
Flashes correctly.
Front left
Front right
Rear left
Rear right
Mirrors
Condition
Cracks, clean, tight mounts and swivel joints.
Aim
Adjust when seated on bike.
Lenses & Reflectors
Condition
Cracked, broken, securely mounted, excessive condensation.
Wiring
Condition
Fraying, chafing, insulation.
Routing
Pinched, no interference or pulling at steering head or suspension, wire looms and ties in place,
connectors tight, clean.

O-OIL
Levels
Engine Oil
Check warm on center stand on level ground, dipstick, sight glass.
Hypoid Gear Oil, Shaft
Drive
Transmission, rear drive, shaft.
Hydraulic Fluid
Brakes, clutch, reservoir or sight glass.
Coolant
Reservoir and/or coolant recovery tank — check only when cool.
Fuel
Tank or gauge.
Leaks
Engine Oil
Gaskets, housings, seals.
Hypoid Gear Oil, Shaft
Drive
Gaskets, seals, breathers.
Hydraulic Fluid
Hoses, master cylinders, calipers.
Coolant
Radiator, hoses, tanks, fittings, pipes.
Fuel
Lines, fuel valve, carbs.

C-CHASSIS
Frame
Condition
Cracks at gussets, accessory mounts, look for paint lifting.
Steering-Head Bear-
ings
No detent or tight spots through full travel, raise front wheel, check for play
by pulling/pushing forks.
Swingarm Bushings/
Bearings
Raise rear wheel, check for play by pushing/pulling swingarm.
Suspension
Front Forks
Smooth travel, equal air pressure/damping, anti-dive settings.
Left
Right
Rear Shock(s)
Smooth travel, equal pre-load/air pressure/damping settings, linkage moves
freely and is lubricated.
Left
Right
Chain or Belt
Tension
Check at tightest point.
Lubrication
Side plates when hot. Note: do not lubricate belts.
Sprockets
Teeth not hooked, securely mounted
Fasteners
Threaded
Tight, missing bolts, nuts.
Clips
Broken, missing.
Cotter Pins
Broken, missing.

S-STANDS
Center stand
Condition
Cracks, bent.
Retention
Springs in place, tension to hold position.
Side stand
Condition
Cracks, bent (safety cut-out switch or pad equipped).
Retention
Springs in place, tension to hold position

 

Before anyone asks - Yes. I do that. Each Ride. It takes far less time to perform (once you train yourself what to look for) than it does to wait for the pal with a Truck to haul your broken down *** home.

 

All inner tubes lose air, all inner tubes lose nitrogen a lot slower then they lose air.

The following is off a website

"For passenger car applications the main claims seem to be

Reduced corrosion – because unlike air there's no moisture in pure nitrogen
Slower rate of pressure loss – because nitrogen molecules are larger than oxygen molecules (which make up 21% of compressed air)
Leakage can occur through the tyre's inner liner but can also occur through the valve, punctures, or failure of the seal between tyre and wheel rim. Pure nitrogen might leak more slowly through the liner, but regular checks of tyre condition and pressures will still be essential.

Corrosion of the tyre through use of normal compressed air alone is most unlikely because only the outer tread band of a car tyre contains steel – the amount of moisture reaching it from the inside is minimal.

Changing to nitrogen involves removing all the air which is already in the tyres and then re-inflating them with purified compressed nitrogen. There will be a one-off charge per tyre but once filled with nitrogen any future top-ups would also have to be with nitrogen if any advantages are to be maintained."

I know the steel belts don't apply to bike tyres but the rest does

 

Be honest now have you or ever in your sickest dreams farted if you didn't you would explode tubes are the same, has your wife or ex girl never told you that you suck air

no such thing as a tube that doesn't lose air

if you don't want to loose air use solid rubber,been proven over the last 100+years it dont F'N work

 

Ride you bike, worry about yer problems later, best teacher.

 

And at the joy of an klx forum fisticuffs,hop yer **** on a klx spend 20 grand plus on a bmw that you cannot pickup, yes I' am well maybe not angry a tad perturbed

 

And don't forget that ambient air temperature affects the air pressure. You could see a few pounds fluctuation in air pressure based on a fluctuation in air temperatures. If the temperature falls 40 degrees, the air pressure is going to slip a bit. You didn't neccessarily lose air, but you lost the pressure.

 

And I thank God lost a wife, own a beach , basketball, soccer ball. Same principals and theory's apply.

 

If you don't loose air you will die Basic Anatomy 101!