Really? So the nut is not against the wheel at all but against the plastic valve caps? Is it ok to ride like that in the street at highway speeds as well?

 

I do ...

 

OK heres my story, one day out trail riding in wet conditions I could not get up a hill (stock 603's) I lowered the tyre pressure, got up the hill fine but ripped a tube. When I got home I bought rim lock and a h/d tube and put them in, only problem then was the wheel was out of balance over 50mph so I had it balanced. Another time was going up a dry but steep hill and ripped the tube, bought another h/d tube and was told to leave my valve stem nut loose up against the cap like Nobrakes and I said before. Since then I have had zero problems with tubes or tyres. I have since replaced the 603 with a knobby tyre and still to date have had no problems.
So to sum it up I installed h/d tube, 1 rimlock in the back wheel with balancing weights (only needed if going over 50mph) and leave my valve stem nut loose.

 

That's the way A KLX250S should be stock. At least a rim lock on the rear wheel. I know your KTM has greater dissplacement than the KLX but my son's CRF150F has a stock rear rim lock.

So guys, get a rim lock and balance that beeotch out. We're ripping stems with a stock KLX250S. Add the mods for more power and you're just asking for a ripped stem.

Mike

 

KDX mike thanks for the info. It's nice to have a starting point for the weight.I'm still not sure yet if I'll use the weights or just get another rim lock. Like 2K1w=no$ said if your going to have that much weight it might as well do something. However the weights would definately be less hassel than removing the wheel,tire and drilling the rim. With the "awesome" power of the stock KLX one rim lock would be fine.