I'll have to drill a hole in the rim opposite the rim lock and install another rim lock to balance it out. I should have done that when I installed the rim lock but I didn't think of it at the time. In the old days we used to drill small holes in the side of the rim and use short sheet metal screws to secure the bead to the rim, but I'm too lazy for that these days.

 

Interesting.
I replaced a rear tube as well with only 1500 kms on it. (No rim locks, but I will watch the tire pressure a bit more!)

 

Forget about it it's not an issue on street bikes.

 

As lcpl said, it would not have any affect on tubeless. But with a tube, it gives your tube a little bit of slide either way before being ripped by the rim. If the tube is under constant strain because it has shifted slightly the rubber will eventually crack and fail. Also if your tube does shift a little, you should be able to tell because it will be at an angle w/respect to the rim whereas the nut will tend to hide that and keep the stem vertical.

So far, knock on wood, I've not had any valve stem problems by not tightening the nut down to the rim. But I run two rim locks and ultra-heavy duty tubes so I'm sure that helps, too. That said, it seems I can never get that valve stem perfectly centered and vertical when I change a tire, it's always cocked slightly to one side for me.

 

Brian, how tight should the outside nut be then? Finger tight? Or not even?

 

Did the KTM come stock with rim locks?

Kawi should have put rim locks on the KLX. We're hearing more and more stories of torn valve stems. Mine tore when I was slowing to a stop light and then began accelerating again once it turned green. I wasn't trying to 'gun it' either.

And yeah Nobrakes, the 30psi thingy wears me out quickly off road.

Mike

 

Great, I really don't want to be hearing this. I have been running with no rim locks with success on the dirt and street for over 4,200 miles. And busted tubes is the last thing I need to worry about when I take the KLX up to New York.

Knock on wood.

 

Roadglider-

Install some spoke weights to ballance the rim lock out. No need for a second rim lock. A second rim lock would make tire changes more difficult and it isn't nesseccary. Check out this thread for rim lock ballancing.
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...highlight=lock

Mike

 

I just put 'em on finger tight. Tighten down the valve cap finger tight, and then "unscrew" the valve stem nut up against it finger tight.

 

Yes it came stock with one rim lock front and rear. I drilled the rims and added the second one, though.