Bill I sent you a pm about the carb.

 

Going Orange wouldn't be my style. I'd work day and night to get it just right. Besides if I were to go orange I could buy some green plastics. I'm all about the kawasaki. The difference in money vs mods. Doing your own work and touches equals less then the price of a ktm.The feeling of being complete with your bike or just buying some more powerful is an easy way out.
Any one can buy power and performance, building it is a love for life. Beside when you throttle it hard you know it was your hours that made it this way. Nothing I own stay's stock. I like to build it the way the factory should have.

 

HeyHeyHeyMadKaws.
Went to one of W/Blue's carbs.
So far nothing but an un-rideable bike and about 400.00 out of pocket.
Two remove and install's of the carb.Got it down to a hour per action.
This is said to be a bolt on performance boost.
Well I've got a real pretty paper weight sitting in the garage.
I'm sure hoping W.Blue has a better answer this time to the "surging" problem or it's go back to the stock carb and rue the day I heard of.......


I WANT this mod to work well !!!!!
But I'm looking for the original carb and reed parts. Is it too much to ask that I be able to ride my Kaw?

Anybody near Toronto ON. Canada. lookin for a 2007 5500 Kms?
Marc

 

I have the big bore and TM36. For the money the big bore gets you much more even with the stock carb.

Jetting the TM36 is time consuming, but can be dialed in to perfection.

I run the big bore, geared 15/39 (SF model) and am still getting 57+ mpg average. I pain $268.00 for my TM36-68 new deliveered, then a few $ more for assorted jets.

Starting hot or cold is no problem.

David

 

The carb isn't going to change your top speed that is a function of your gearing, and a 30% increase in performance from a carb change is stupid. Won't happen ever on these bikes. No suprise you are having some issues with the set-up.

 

I did not get 30% from the big bore kit. maybe 25%, but I increased the displacement by 40%. I also did not get much more on top end. I think its the wind resistance.

The carb helps with response and FEEL, I don't think it adds any HP compared to a PROPERLY jetted stock carb.

No dyno results to back this up. Just my opinion.
Disclaimers.... sheesh!

Stock I could get 83 give or take. Big bore and TM36 carb, I could get 86 and once I saw 89 mph. All are indicated. My speedo is off 7% by a GPS.

David

When I did the big bore, I made a test run. A measured distance from a standing stop. Before I could get 67 mph after I could get 77mph in the same distance. Umm that could be a 23% increase depending on how you see it.

 

If you are getting an un-ridealble bike, perhaps you are fixing the wrong part? maybe its not the carb?

My bike ran MUCH better when I installed the TM36 with the jetting that came with it. Then I dialed it in. It is the ***** now!

David

 

Just throwing this out for discussion...not promoting or slamming any carb vs. carb debate going on here. In my earlier years of playing with swapping out carbs on big road bikes and dirt bikes...I could never leave anything alone...I thought there was a general rule concerning CV carbs as compared to cable pull slide carbs...or direct linkage pull carb sets on multicylinder engines. That rule was that a conventional cable pull slide carb can flow a greater amount of air than an equally sized CV carb. An example at that time was presented on a flow bench test where a flat slide cable pull 32mm carb flowed the same amount as a 34mm CV carb. This has been years ago on a street legal DS single cylinder engine, and no, I obviously don't have the data from then.

I did something similar by mounting a 32mm EI flat slide cable pull carb on a KL250 that had a 32mm CV carb. The bike was overcarbed with the EI carb no matter what you did with the jetting...which was super easy to tune because of its design. I went down to a 30mm EI carb body, and the bike ran great throughout the rpm range.

Now...as I see people putting a 36mm flat slide cable pull carb in place of a 34 CV carb on their engines, I wonder about the issue of over-carbing. Granted, now we're talking about a displacement increase in most cases...though a few have the 36 on a 250 if I recall. I'm not saying this won't work, as I haven't done it, and it appears that some/many have indeed gotten it to function properly.

Remember, I'm bringing this up for discussion and not a claim of yea or nay on the bigger or smaller carb.

 

Alfred , I have seen times when a smaller carb works better or gives better throttle control on snowmobiles. I have also seen when a slide carb does not have enough control.

Good example; Radio controlled cars. A rotary carb works better in the dirt where a slide carb works better for the on road cars. Slide carb made for quicker response and more power. rotary carb gave smoother control.

IN MY case, the bigger carb with the bigger cylinder worked out as a great match while still getting great fuel mileage.

Many opinions....

David

edit: I don't think it matters which carb you go for, Bored out 33 or 36. Both are more than enough for the bike. Stock carb worked with big bore, TM36 works better for me. Never used Bills carb, so I can't say.

 

David, you bring up a good point about power delivery. Your bike is an SF, right? Street setups seem to be able to deal better with over-carbing better than a dirt bike...and not saying yours is over-carbed. You're getting good fuel mileage, and that's somewhat indicative of good jetting, but I know you spent a great deal of work and time to get there.