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For my next bout of troubleshooting I built a ”peak voltage adapter” to check my crankshaft position sensor. Seems it could explain my current problems.
The shop manual says it should read 3.7 volts or more when cranking with spark plug cap off. And if lower, I should replace it. I’m getting about 3.65 volts on average. Occasionally it quickly blips up to 3.67 or 3.68.
That’s lower and according to the manual I should replace it. But how precise are these sensors? Like, is 3.7 volts the absolute bare minimum and the reading usually should be much higher? (Therefore, this sensor really does need replacing) or is 3.65 ~ 3.68 “close enough” for this sensor and it’s probably fine?
Replacing the sensor means replacing the entire stator, so I’m hoping someone here might know. But I’ve gone through the whole darn bike and this is one of the last things I can think is causing the problem.
You're voltage is very close and those symptoms do not sound like a crankshaft position sensor to me.
Have you checked for air leaks around the throttle body by spraying something like carb cleaner and seeing if your RPM changes?
edit to add: also it wouldn't hurt to make sure your clutch is disengaging fully. Possible it's still dragging enough at stop lights to load down the motor enough to stall it.
You're voltage is very close and those symptoms do not sound like a crankshaft position sensor to me.
Have you checked for air leaks around the throttle body by spraying something like carb cleaner and seeing if your RPM changes?
edit to add: also it wouldn't hurt to make sure your clutch is disengaging fully. Possible it's still dragging enough at stop lights to load down the motor enough to stall it.
Yeah, I’m inclined to agree. I’m sure there’s some room for error with that number and it’s prob fine.
Right, I checked for air leaks back when it first started. I’m going back to square one to recheck everything. Sprayed for air leaks again and all ok.
About the clutch. It did occur to me that could be happening. But for it to happen with the old plates and the ones I have in there now seems unlikely. The current plates are mostly new. I was low on cash and bought some off brand. Prob re-branded Chinese crap. They swelled the first time I took it off-road. So I removed them. But…
I did change the clutch basket and all the other parts maybe 5 months ago. My old one had a little movement on that little gear on the back (circled in pic) so I bought one second hand. Not sure if it really mattered (the new one didn’t have that issue) I wouldn’t imagine the basket itself would cause this issue, right? I could always swap it back and see what happens.
I couldn't see the basket itself doing it but there is only so much tolerance for thickness in the whole assembly. There is a spec for the assembled size and Kawasaki makes different thickness plates to compensate, but I would just lift the rear tire and put it in gear to see if the clutch is still dragging. A little bit of drag shouldn't be enough to stall it, but if it still grabs a lot it definitely could, combined with the brakes engaged like what you would be doing at a stop light.
07-08-2023, 01:57 PM
Testing Crankshaft Position Sensor - is 3.65 Volts OK?
