Close to pulling the trigger on a BB351. Can you elaborate on not running synthetic/semi-synth on these kits?

 

Run conventional oil until it's broken in. You can use synthetic afterwards but make sure it wet clutch compatible.

 

Synthetic oils can do such a great job lubricating that it can hinder new rings from seating(wearing) to get the best sealing possible. It's advisable to use a conventional oil for the start-up and then you can use a synthetic(wet clutch compatible) oil after that.

 

I'd be happy to elaborate on this subject Queenie..

Run conventional oil until it's broken in. You can use synthetic afterwards but make sure it wet clutch compatible.

Synthetic oils can do such a great job lubricating that it can hinder new rings from seating(wearing) to get the best sealing possible. It's advisable to use a conventional oil for the start-up and then you can use a synthetic(wet clutch compatible) oil after that.

Anyone else hear an echo ?

 

I saw this in my 351 + piston noise. No cylinder damage though (ran less than 10mi).

 

Has anyone tried installing one of these KLX300 cylinders? The price is very nice but I'm curious to know of real world experience with this specific cylinder.

 

That's a very good price. It would work on your 250.

 

I'm not so sure. Look at the cam chain tensioner hole. Not anything close to OEM.

 

This kit has come up before. It's an Asian kit of some kind, and I don't think we ever found anyone who tried it on a KLX250/300 that's sold in this country. His description of the adapter or whatever for the cam chain is interesting, but I'm not sure I'd like to be the guinea pig for it. It's interesting because I don't know of any other cam chain design anywhere on the KLX series even back to the first ones that we know...and weren't available in the U.S. I'd like someone to chime in from anywhere who's seen this slightly different setup.

 

I used multigrade oil in the time the bore was in my bike, not synthetic.

Although riding conditions were hot, they were no hotter than any other time I rode the bike with the stock kit, there was fresh coolant in the bike after the rebuild, and the fan definitely worked as I recall it coming on every now and then. So I'm unsure whether the scuffing was from overheating.

I don't have the bore anymore so I can't take a picture from below.

I'm confused by this notion that there should be no cross hatching after just 1000km. You'd expect there to be cross hatching for a long time - otherwise you'd consider the bore to be glazed and you would lose a lot of compression.

As far as clearance specs at the time of install, I did not test those. In hindsight I probably should have, but I (perhaps foolishly) assumed that Bill would have already done the measurements and checking before he sent me the kit.

I honestly do not know why this scuffing occurred, I just thought other BB351 kit owners should know about this and keep an eye out for it.

Whilst the kit was in the bike pulled beautifully and felt like it ran really well. I don't recall any knocking noises or anything to indicate there was a problem. The only reason I realised it had happened was because the bore and piston came off early in its life to be put on another bike.