Hi guys,

I’m looking at upgrading my fork springs but does any one know if any other model bikes fork springs are a direct fit to klx?

I have searched and know that kx125 rear springs are a direct fit but cant really find any info on fork springs.

Only reason I ask is that I can get a set of KLX specific springs here in AU for $370 (that’s fork and rear springs), but there are heaps of different options for a lot cheaper on eBay in the US just no KLX specific springs.

Cheers
-Neil

 

First of all specified for that year is the bike, since 2009 onwards using shorter springs and different damping settings on the rear.
In this way we can help you better. Even if you indicate your weight better.

 

Woops....... Its a 2006 KLX250s.

I am 82kgs (about 180lbs) + Gear and have been recommened a .48kg/mm for the fronts forks (which sounds a little heavy to me) and a 6.0kg/mm for the rear.

Basically i know I can get cheaper from the states on eBay but no one has springs for a klx on eBay so I was wondering if another model bike had spings that were interchangeable with the KLX (I have read that the KX125 rears are a perfect fit).

 

neil, I used Race Tech springs for the KLX300 in my '06 model. 300 springs are 15mm shorter than the '06 OEM KLX250 springs, but it's not a problem. Our '06/'07 models have the same travel in the same 43mm KYB fork, so there's no issue with coil bind or such. I just spaced the spring to achieve the recommended 5mm-20mm sag range to suit my preference, and it's been great.

I agree with you that .48 sounds a bit high on the recommended spring. I'm 185 without gear, and I went with .44's. However, I like a softer fork than most, but I'd doubt you'd go over a .46 at best. The .46 is what was recommended for me.

I also used the 300 rear shock spring from Eibach. Oddly the 300 OEM spring is 15mm longer than our KLX250, but again with the same travel. The extra 15mm was easily accomodated by my KLX.

 

Thanks TNC ill have a look for KLX300 spings.

The guy ive been talking to on eBay (USA) doesnt stock any model KLX springs which is why ive been asking if there are any other bikes that match the KLX so ill see if what the web bassed stores have.

There is a big price difference in price stateside compared to here (australia). Bassed on eBay (USA) prices I should be able to get a set for around $200 including postage (probably more from a web bassed shop). The quotes I have had for AU so far are around $400 so twice the price.

 

When i got my springs done with Shock Treatment (Terry hay is the Racetech agent in Aus) the fork springs cost me $170 and the rear (Eibach) was $185. I thought that was pretty good to be honest.

 

Thanks Arctra, I still think that is too much to pay when springs are about $116 USD on the raceteck web page. Not sure on the postage but i would imagine cheaper than what is here.

On eBay there are springs for around $79 USD but none that are KLX specific.

Although in saying all this I probably should support the AU economy by purchasing from here buts really hard when things are way cheaper stateside, particularly with the dollar the way it is.

 

Hi TNC What did you do here? Have you made a fancy pre load for the forks or did you just space up the spring with a piece of billet, trial and error until you got the correct length for the spacer?

 

Man, it's been over a year, but I'm sure I didn't have to make a fancy spacer out of anything. Race Tech says these springs I used should have a minimum of 5mm preload to a max of 20mm. Just putting one RT supplied washer between the bottom of the cap and the top of the spring gave me about 7mm of preload. That turned out just perfect for me. Now, the OEM springs are 15mm longer than the RT 300 springs, so they must have been decently preloaded in stock condition. I scratched my head over that, but I didn't recheck the OEM springs to see how much they were actually preloaded, as it was a moot point then. I thought just about everywhere else that I had read indicated that if you used 300 springs, you had to make a decently long spacer. The RT .44 springs I used were fine just with one supplied washer. Making a PVC spacer or such would have been easy, but I didn't need it.

 

I used a 1" pvc coupler, cut in half. I probably have a little more pre-load than I should have. PVC works just fine. Clean off the burrs.

I put springs in, then rode for several months, then put in the Gold Valves. What I have noticed is that my forks do not travel down as far and bottom out now with the Gold Valves, but they did without the GVs.