Yes it would, But I like the seat height of the 09+. If you don't mind the taller bike then go for it. Being tippy-toed on uneven ground is not my cup of tea.

 

cmott, it's been awhile since I saw it, but didn't the earlier and later model KLX's have pretty close to the same seat height?

 

After google-ing it, 2007 is actually shorter. 34.8" compared to the 35" of the 09+. The KLX300 is 36.4.
Perhaps it the seat width that makes it seem shorter.

My old WR had a seat height of 39".

 

I would like to see some remove their springs and reinstall the shock and measure the actual travel. I did this to my 99 Polaris Scrambler and the claimed 9 inches or travel was a huge LIE, I measured it to be only 7". I did this by placing the quad on a stand where the tires just touched the ground then with a jack moved the wheel up and then measured the distance between the ground and the tire.

 

I never did, just pointed out differences in terrain in general. I stuck with the topic, what the OP should consider. As I said, it is all about the tools used, the kind of bike that works best and no one knows that better than the rider, as I was pointing out in my first post about the differences.

I said absolutely nothing about one area being tougher than the other, just how it would be riding different bikes in different areas. Having tried my 650 on some tighter trails I can definitely vouch for how it works there and riding the more open roads how it works there. It is the way the bikes work, draw assumptions from there. One reason I did not say which bike to go with... I don't know what kind of terrain is predominant in the OP's riding area.

I am sure back in the day Husky sold a whole lot more big bores in the west than in the east. Penton made their name with the 125 and 175 to start, eventually doing a 250 and I'm not sure if the 400 came out as a Penton or KTM. Penton developed in Ohio. Husky worked both ends. Each had their needs.

 

It is not all about travel. It is quality of travel. The KLX250/300 fork only has compression damping and no rebound adjustment. Yes you can change the sping and change the level and the weight of the oil but still in the end it is a basic fork.

Look into doing a KX250 fork swap or a fork that offers better adjustabilty

You need/want quality of travel!

 

Could you mix KX uppers with KLX lowers to keep the wheel and speedo? Or do the KX lowers offer more/different adjustment? I've done it to bicycle forks...just wondering.
I guess all KX = Vapor computer too, right?

 

Springs and oil aren't all you can do. Regardless of a lack of external rebound adjusters, you can install Race Tech Gold Valves and shims or the Moto Pro similar kit. Changes the fork big time. Nothing wrong with doing another fork like the KX if you want, but the USD OEM fork with the right damping is pretty sweet.

I have a complete 2002 Honda CR125R rolling chassis with a 46mm KYB fork with 12" of travel that I've been contemplating putting on my '06 KLX. I got it free, so there's no investment. I just haven't gotten the gumption to do the swap, as my RT modded OEM fork works darned well.

 

There have been a number of KLX650 riders that have done KX fork swaps and their front ends are very similar to the earlier 250 (pre-2009). I didn't read up on how they went, but it would be worth a look. Probably more details in the Yahoo KLX650 group, but possibly in the KLX650 riders unite thread on ADVrider too.

TNC, what does it take to set up the RT Gold Valves? Is it pretty straight forward for weight and ride style? About what was the general cost?

 

Yeah, setting up the Gold Valves or Moto Pro kits is straight forward. The video and written instructions with my GV kit was outstanding. Paul Thede's video is awesome and informative. The kit's instructions come with detailed variables for rider weight, riding style, terrain priority, and bike setup. You get recommendations and all kinds of options to pick the shim stacks from. If you take the formula's recommendation based on your input, it's pretty darned spot-on as is. I tweaked my fork a hair softer on the compression circuit, but I would have been satisfied with the recommendation. Mark, your discussion about fluid dynamics in the other post is clearly at work in the KLX fork. The OEM compression pistons in the fork won't flow enough oil for anything approaching aggressive off road riding. If you get to compare the stock fork compression pistons to the Gold Valve piston, you'll think the OEM piston valve was designed by Fisher-Price.