Shift Star - Design Change
Junior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 18
From: Golden, CO
Jon,
There shouldn't be any reason to open up any other part of the engine at this point. Everything you need to access is already exposed.
I understand what you're trying to do by connecting the chain to roll the bike while checking for gear changes, but let's make sure what you're doing is really going to tell you what you need to know. I'm thinking you're just missing a minor detail in your technique.
What Marc was telling you about having one shaft stationary and the other rotating is something that (I think) I also explained in a previous post. By having the engine not running and the clutch engaged (not pulled), you are locking up the input shaft of the transmission. That takes care of the stationary shaft part. Now if you try rolling the bike with the drive chain fully installed, you are making the output shaft spin. That takes care of the moving shaft part.
However, if you are rolling the bike along with the clutch pulled (disengaged) the whole time, you're letting both shafts turn together, which will in many cases prevent the transmission from shifting properly. You need to release the clutch lever between each shift, and try to roll the bike with the lever released, to make sure the transmission is fully engaged into each gear. Obviously, if you try to push the bike in gear with the clutch lever out, it's going to lock up the rear tire - that's exactly what you want to happen. Actually, the best way of doing this is to ignore the clutch lever altogether; just push the bike forward until the rear tire wants to skid, then while you're still pushing forward, perform an up or down shift (without the clutch); there should be an obvious gear change; then continue to push the bike until the rear tire wants to skid, and perform another shift; keep doing this until you've gone through all the gears.
You can also do all of this with the bike on the stand. All you really need to do is turn the countershaft sprocket by hand while shifting through gears. Again, forget about using the clutch for this testing. Often, you can move the shift lever with one hand while turning the sprocket with the other hand, and you'll know when each gear engages, there's an audible and tactile click. By 'turning' the sprocket, I don't mean spinning it over and over...all you're trying to do is move it just a little bit to allow the transmission internals to properly engage. Once the transmission shifts gears, you won't be able to turn it at all, other than a little back and forth play due to gear backlash.
Once you're sure you're shifting one gear at a time, be sure to actually count each gear change. Then you'll know where you're at.
One more thing: if you're shifting with the shift mechanism cover off, you might have issues with slop in the system preventing everything from working right. If I remember correctly, when i was doing the same with mine (cover off), I needed to make sure the shift mechanism stayed in place, otherwise it would move out of position and might not move the shift star far enough to complete each gear change.
There shouldn't be any reason to open up any other part of the engine at this point. Everything you need to access is already exposed.
I understand what you're trying to do by connecting the chain to roll the bike while checking for gear changes, but let's make sure what you're doing is really going to tell you what you need to know. I'm thinking you're just missing a minor detail in your technique.
What Marc was telling you about having one shaft stationary and the other rotating is something that (I think) I also explained in a previous post. By having the engine not running and the clutch engaged (not pulled), you are locking up the input shaft of the transmission. That takes care of the stationary shaft part. Now if you try rolling the bike with the drive chain fully installed, you are making the output shaft spin. That takes care of the moving shaft part.
However, if you are rolling the bike along with the clutch pulled (disengaged) the whole time, you're letting both shafts turn together, which will in many cases prevent the transmission from shifting properly. You need to release the clutch lever between each shift, and try to roll the bike with the lever released, to make sure the transmission is fully engaged into each gear. Obviously, if you try to push the bike in gear with the clutch lever out, it's going to lock up the rear tire - that's exactly what you want to happen. Actually, the best way of doing this is to ignore the clutch lever altogether; just push the bike forward until the rear tire wants to skid, then while you're still pushing forward, perform an up or down shift (without the clutch); there should be an obvious gear change; then continue to push the bike until the rear tire wants to skid, and perform another shift; keep doing this until you've gone through all the gears.
You can also do all of this with the bike on the stand. All you really need to do is turn the countershaft sprocket by hand while shifting through gears. Again, forget about using the clutch for this testing. Often, you can move the shift lever with one hand while turning the sprocket with the other hand, and you'll know when each gear engages, there's an audible and tactile click. By 'turning' the sprocket, I don't mean spinning it over and over...all you're trying to do is move it just a little bit to allow the transmission internals to properly engage. Once the transmission shifts gears, you won't be able to turn it at all, other than a little back and forth play due to gear backlash.
Once you're sure you're shifting one gear at a time, be sure to actually count each gear change. Then you'll know where you're at.
One more thing: if you're shifting with the shift mechanism cover off, you might have issues with slop in the system preventing everything from working right. If I remember correctly, when i was doing the same with mine (cover off), I needed to make sure the shift mechanism stayed in place, otherwise it would move out of position and might not move the shift star far enough to complete each gear change.
Sorry for abandoning my post about this issue awhile ago... I didn't even remember to come back and update everyone once I got everything working again, I was too excited to get out and ride! In the end, I honestly do not have any clue what I did to get everything to line up... but after trying to line the star up about a dozen times, it finally fell into place and everything started shifting just fine. I imagine that I just didn't have the shafts correctly lined up, and that through some combination of things you recommended above, I must have gotten everything to line up properly. One of those things where I just decided to stop trying to figure it out and just ride!
(Lutz) I know you mentioned that you didn't notice a significant improvement in shifting after installing a new star gear, but I definitely have. I got the newest star gear part from Bike Bandit, and I fabricated my own little dowel to slip onto the end of the torsion spring, as offered by the Planet KLX guys... with the case open, I was unable to judge any positive benefit from the extra torque provided by the dowel, so ultimately I did NOT leave the dowel in. Overall though, I am extremely please with the way my bike shifts now... hopefully that shifter case will be able to remain sealed for a looong time!
Now, I just need to figure out why the hell my bike won't run, which others have been helping me with in my "KLX Stalls/Comp Resets/Wont Restart" thread... any suggestions??
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 760
From: Young Harris, GA
1st Gear Member
I was having an intermittent issue with 5th gear on my '12. It would upshift into 5th but it was like the drum didn't center on the star. After opening up the case, I removed the star and modified the profile so that it was more pointed like the post suggested. I left the spring tension alone and buttoned up the engine and I haven't had any more issues. Hope this is a permanent solution.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2
only just bought my 08 klx 250 (700kms on the clock), the bloke i bought it off didn't want it because it was too slow haha took it for a run and realised it only had 1st - 4th gears, got worried until i read this, decided to have a look and sure as **** it has the crappy design star and it was broken, new part should be in tommorrow can't wait to test it out!
Junior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8
Hello everyone I have a quick noob question. I recently dropped my bike on dirt and bent my shifter which caused me to not be able to get into 1 through 2nd. So from reading around here I'm 93% sure its my shift star. So now my noob question. Do I need to drain my oil in order to change the shift star? I'm assuming yes but I don't want to drain the oil if I don't have to. (I just changed my oil about 100 miles before this)
I am mechanically inclined but I'm semi new to motorcycles. Thanks for all the help guys!
I am mechanically inclined but I'm semi new to motorcycles. Thanks for all the help guys!
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 419
From: North Shore of Lake Superior
1st Gear Member
only just bought my 08 klx 250 (700kms on the clock), the bloke i bought it off didn't want it because it was too slow haha took it for a run and realised it only had 1st - 4th gears, got worried until i read this, decided to have a look and sure as **** it has the crappy design star and it was broken, new part should be in tommorrow can't wait to test it out!
Hello everyone I have a quick noob question. I recently dropped my bike on dirt and bent my shifter which caused me to not be able to get into 1 through 2nd. So from reading around here I'm 93% sure its my shift star. So now my noob question. Do I need to drain my oil in order to change the shift star? I'm assuming yes but I don't want to drain the oil if I don't have to. (I just changed my oil about 100 miles before this)
I am mechanically inclined but I'm semi new to motorcycles. Thanks for all the help guys!
I am mechanically inclined but I'm semi new to motorcycles. Thanks for all the help guys!
Junior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8
I've just finished replacing the broken shift star. I too lucked out and found the broken piece right under it.
One thing I've noticed though is that with the old shift star I was able to shift through all the gears with the bike off and not moving at all. With the new one I have to roll the bike in order to get to any other gear in every gear. Should I be concerned about this? I know its normal for that to happen on a motorcycle sometimes but its just different than before. I haven't rode the bike yet because its too late right now but I will in the morning.
One thing I've noticed though is that with the old shift star I was able to shift through all the gears with the bike off and not moving at all. With the new one I have to roll the bike in order to get to any other gear in every gear. Should I be concerned about this? I know its normal for that to happen on a motorcycle sometimes but its just different than before. I haven't rode the bike yet because its too late right now but I will in the morning.
Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 87
From: Victoria B.C.
I too replaced my shift star- wasn't broken but oil change was due and I was curious
Same thing, have to rock bike to shift gear when not running... I dont think its an issue, maybe just the difference in profile of the star's points.
* I also switched to 15-50, Motul double ester.. got a deal at the shop.
Shifting is a tad clunky for the first couple shifts, but once engine is warm what a nice smooth shifting experience.
Also put on an IMS shift lever, intended for a klx300. Big difference, especially since the OEM unit had experience a few left side spills. Left side coil cover is a bit wider on the street legal klx unit so it doesnt fit quite right.. Had to knock it down one tooth on the spline and bend it up a bit with a wrench, but it works like a jiffy now
Same thing, have to rock bike to shift gear when not running... I dont think its an issue, maybe just the difference in profile of the star's points.
* I also switched to 15-50, Motul double ester.. got a deal at the shop.
Shifting is a tad clunky for the first couple shifts, but once engine is warm what a nice smooth shifting experience.
Also put on an IMS shift lever, intended for a klx300. Big difference, especially since the OEM unit had experience a few left side spills. Left side coil cover is a bit wider on the street legal klx unit so it doesnt fit quite right.. Had to knock it down one tooth on the spline and bend it up a bit with a wrench, but it works like a jiffy now
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 181
From: Patagonia, AZ
1st Gear Member
My transmission has been shifting smoothly, but I like to ride in the middle of nowhere and I don't like breakdowns so I decided to combine installing a 13 tooth sprocket with a look at if there was a good or "bad" 13091-1856 HOLDER,CHANGE DRUM in my 2009. It had the bad design so I ordered from Partszilla, and got a good one. Pretty easy to install. Just for a data point, the last five of the VIN: 00666. Next Friday we are going to look at my buddy's '10. I'll report what we find along with his VIN next week.
So today, Friday, we peeled the various pieces off and checked the '10. It had the correct part in it - no need to replace. the last 5 digits of this '10: 09258.
So today, Friday, we peeled the various pieces off and checked the '10. It had the correct part in it - no need to replace. the last 5 digits of this '10: 09258.
Last edited by oldgypsy; Jun 6, 2014 at 08:28 PM. Reason: update
Junior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 16
From: Riverside County California
Im the original owner of an 09 I'm about to change sprockets, so maybe I should check this out.
Mine shifts (no comparison since its my first bike)
It seems like sometimes I have to rock the bike back and forth about a foot to find first gear, would this mod help with that? Or is that a normal bike trait?
My solution has been to downshift my way into first every time I stop.
Mine shifts (no comparison since its my first bike)
It seems like sometimes I have to rock the bike back and forth about a foot to find first gear, would this mod help with that? Or is that a normal bike trait?
My solution has been to downshift my way into first every time I stop.