If you file down the tip of a Philips screwdriver (#2?) it may work on those JIS screw heads.

 

Neonarc, are you saying you sprayed the top of the carb - the silver, metal, diaphragm cover - and the engine died?

 

I'm talking about the about the part that holds the ends of the throttle cables and is regulated by the idle screw. That same part has a spring behind it, and a grommet between it and the carb body. I don't know the proper name but its the part that opens/shuts the butterfly valve at the carb outlet to the intake duct.

 

Neither the seal nor the whole butterfly valve assembly is listed unfortunately.

2009 Kawasaki KLX250SF (KLX250W9F) Carburetor | Babbitts Kawasaki Parts House

 

Ok, I am not aware of any seal between the throttle cable bracket and the carb body.. But sounds like you found at least one problem..

 

Not my carb, but here is an example. Yellow box contains the butterfly and shaft. The red arrow points to where the seal/grommet is, behind the the spring. Under the cap on other side of the shaft, there is a seal held in place by a c-clip. Not sure if that is leaking as I didn't spray it but I was wet with gasoline there under the cap.



Going to get a proper screwdriver today and if that doesn't work then to a machine shop to get them drilled out. I want to take a look at that seal so I can see what I can do about it. I haven't found it anywhere. I have seen the seal for the other side cap.

cheers

 

Couldn't find the proper screwdriver, but I got a drill bit and extractor so I'm gonna give it a shot myself. I hope the screws are soft and come out easily. I saw a video that gave me the idea to place a wood piece inside the carb behind the butterfly valve to hold it in place.

Forgot to get new screws so I'll have to go back for some if I get these out. I measured them at 3mm wide on their back side. Would red loctite do the trick in holding new screws in there? Or would it be better to use plastiweld or something similar?

I have a theory about the seal going bad. I used cheapo carb cleaner from autozone to clean the carb before installing it after replacing the cam chain. I used that same cleaner to clean the tensioner when off the bike and it started to strip the paint on it. That's not normal for a carb cleaner right? I can't recall stripping painted surfaces with it, brake cleaner sure, but not carb. So I'm thinking that cleaner dried out the seal, maybe. Glad I didn't use it to clean the diaphragm, but I used it on the rest of the carb inside and out.

sorry to bore you all jaja, cheers

PS: Picures will be uploaded tonight

 

Well sucking air at the shaft seal(s) is obviously a leaning condition.. Hope fixing it doesn't put you back to "square one" with tuning..

 

Screws are 4mm. Came out easily with the extractor thankfully.




The butterfly shaft had a c-clip under the cap on the left side (in relation to sitting on the bike facing forward) and 2 washers/seals under that, one plastic one metal.



The shaft once removed



The seals. The black one is hard pastic. The other is similar to felt, like the rings used on battery terminals sort of.




Of course I couldn't find any of those types of "felt" seals. I ended up getting an o-ring that I placed in the shaft entrance then the felt seal over that. I used silicone lube on the o-ring and shaft.




The shaft assembled without the spring to view the plastic seal.



The new screws installed with red loctite.



I haven't tested the bike yet, I'm crossing my fingers.

cheers

 

Found this TDS on red loctite. Based on the graph on the second page it seems that 8 hours is a good balance point between time and % of strength. It also seems high temp accelerates the cure time greatly but I'm worried about how the gasoline/air mixture would affect the curing, maybe it would wash it way.

http://www.permatex.com/documents/TD...tive/27010.pdf