At about a 1000 miles I put one of these in. For $10 it makes a big difference in that the bikes seems to start easier. I did not really notice an "on the throttle" performance gain or mile per gallon gain.

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a, i bet those accidental wheelies also have a lot about how your releasing the clutch/ and or not using it (even my klx lifts the wheel in 2nd not using the clutch). b, drag racers dream about weather is more about the ground temp for traction and also air dencity for getting the right tune. and yes, temp is included in air density, along with relative air pressure and humidity.

heres a link or too for ya.

http://perfectpower.com/technical_info/tips.asp

"INTER-COOLERS
An inter-cooler works and looks the same as a normal radiator of a car. The only difference is that an inter-cooler cools air instead of water. Both the inter-cooler and the radiator need to have air passing through/over them to make them work.

Turbo chargers and dry superchargers can only use them. Both of these chargers heat the air in the process of compressing it. The gas law, the way I remember it from school, refers to the absolute zero temperature of -273 degree C. Which means that for every 60 degree C the density changes by 10%. Assuming the engines volumetric efficiency stays the same, then we get 10% more power out of an engine, if we can reduce the inlet air temperature by 60 degree C. Inter-coolers are very important for turbo charged engines, because of the extra heating caused by the exhaust."

so a temp drop of 60 degree c or 140 degree f is need for a 10 percent change. so for us that means the diffrence of running litteraly night and day (let say thats 35 degrees) is only half a hp, or a 2.5 percent change. in other words, you butt dyno is either really sensitive or it lieing to you.

here a link for how temp affects drag racers.
http://www.staginglight.com/guide/air.html

 

I agree and have always been a believer in RAM air and for this reason do not see how removing the air box snorkel benefits performance except for maybe at slow speeds. In my experience forcing air into the airbox is the best.
(Have probably just opened a can of worms) When I rejet I will be adding the larger KDX snorkel.

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_9508_ram/index.html

 

A. It's so interesting that i've had so many accidental wheelies when cold and not hot... so if I follow what you're saying, what is actually affected by temperature most consistently is actually my hand performance on the clutch ... even in my automatic pickup... interesting assessment.

B. I know what an inter-cooler is, and a radiator, and a thermostat, and a cam gear and I've never checked my blinker fluid, but I'll let the condescension slide on the basis that what you noted only confirms the importance of cooling air into an engine for performance (since someone bothered to engineer it in the first place.)

C. Actually a temp drop of 60C is a temp drop of a comparable 108F total (while 60 C is a direct conversion to 140F the drop to 0C (a 60C drop for us math whizzes) this is NOT the equivalent drop to 0F but rather only reflects the drop to 32F or (freezing) and this is only 108 total F, not 140 degrees Just saying. Your over-estimate reflects nearly 30% MORE change than needed for the 10% feel

(Since I ride in 105F degree weather AND 10 degree weather... this means my total drop in real life riding is 95F which is a full blown 87.9% of the 10% from a 60C drop like you described ... Like an 8.8% change in HP give or take less than a tenth of a percent ... and that's 'feelable' in my butt anyday in any vehicle, I'm just saying.)

But ... you also have to remember the drop in relative humidity in combination with cooler air will amplify the affects over a similar drop in temp as higher humidity actually reduces air density by displacing it in addition to the higher temperature... so a HOT HUMID day is worse than a HOT DRY day and REALLY stinks compared to a COOL DRY day... which your website so helpfully notes:

"When we take air that is at a set temperature and pressure and start introducing increased amounts of humidity we begin to cause the overall density of the air to decrease."

Not only this but the effect is significantly more the hotter it is when achieving high humidity, again note what your website says..

"This effect is due to the fact that it takes lot more water to cause 50% relative humidity at a 90 degree temperature than it does at 70 degrees"

So really, if you consider the total effect of humidity and temperature shifts in real world riding situations (Like NJ where 90% humity and 90+F are not at all strange to see, or ride in, and where I will come home from a winter ride with frost on my helmet it's not at all unreasonable to think that a rider would not only FEEL but actually experience changes in EXCESS of ten percent from day to day or even in the same day with a combo of temp drop and humidity decrease.

But the most important point of all is how for me and my sensitive butt dyno, thinking I can go faster on a cold day makes me feel better! Lucky for me... apparently all my bikes, and cars, agree and feel better too! Cold air makes me happy!

 

a. im saying that the small diffrence it makes isnt as huge as you make it out.

b. i wasnt saying you where stupid or anything, i copy and pasted a small part from a web site, that was writen for the average person, not someone with extensive knowage of cars/motorcycles.

c. i googled the info and forgot to account for that, definally my bad, but most americans dont have the metric to standard ratios in their heads. and i really hope you dont ride in weather that goes from 105f to 10f in one day, cus this is part of what im saying. you never going to noice the diffrence unless its back to back. lets take a car using a intercooler sprayer, there enough of a diffrence between using it and not to be noticeable on a 1/4 mile time/dyno, thats why they use it. now a diffrence from the track opening (lets say 7 am for conv) and noon, theres going to be a bigger diffrence in times just from diffrence in shifting and launching. hell, take you car to the dyno and youll rairly get the EXACT same graph even if they are back to back.

thats cool if it makes you feel better, im just coming from a dyno sheet/time slip point of view. if you want to continue this conv though, lets take it to a diffrent thread so we dont take the spot light off acole and his bike.

 

Despite what you may think, leaving the snorkel on does not increase flow, nor does it make "ram" air. There are several reasons why.

 

And they are???

 

Most people can't live with the extra (induction) noise when the lid is removed. The main reason they stick with a snorkel. The KLX is a 4 stroke and the KDX is a two stroke so the snorkel has no bearing on performance really. As fro Ram air. it's not happening on the KLX. Space under the seat is at a premium and there really isn't any direct route for air into a snorkel when fitted.

The real benefit is adding a larger opening to allow more air (as you are doing with a KDX snorkel,) and removing the lid will do this very effectively.

Did I mention the extra (Free RooShoo) noise.

 

free rooshoo, i couldnt stop laughing when i saw that, but he is right. AFTER you have it rejeted (if you havent), just take the lid off and throw it away.

 

WestOZ hit most of the reasons. There is no direct route of airflow, so that cuts that out right there, the air passages are way too small, plus the stock snorkel actually splits them in half. Its not even a whole tube. Also, the snorkel goes into the box, it does not directly feed the carb. This creates a vortex and may actually even rob air.

The main reason to keep the snorkel, like the KDX version, which is larger, is to increase air flow, because its a bigger hole, and to reduce noise and help keep water out. Your much better off to just take the damn thing off.I took my snorkel out, but I left my lid on though to help keep out water and foreign debris, and noise reduction as well.