prob.cold start,noobie..

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  #21  
Old 03-06-2011, 11:56 PM
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You can spin the bit in your hands or put it in a small chuck and not use a power tool to minimize the chance that you over do it.
 
  #22  
Old 03-07-2011, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by KLXMIKE
Thanks for your help,
I have one more question.
Is there anything on the other side of the jet you can screw up as the drill goes through?
The pot metal of the carb body is on the other side, but it's a decently large cavity, and you'll easily feel and tell when the bit has gone through the brass jet. You'd have to get really crazy with the bit to do any damage. You're doing this with a small hand-held bit holder or even just a pair of vise grips will work. Don't put the bit in a motor driven drill.
 
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  #23  
Old 03-07-2011, 01:25 AM
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Thanks, I think I can handle that.
 
  #24  
Old 03-07-2011, 01:14 PM
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What size is the jet before drilling? If you can drill it out by hand it must be pretty close to .018
 
  #25  
Old 03-07-2011, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by KLXMIKE
What size is the jet before drilling? If you can drill it out by hand it must be pretty close to .018
It's a .016" or so. It's like other jets you change. The physical size of the steps are quite small.
 
  #26  
Old 03-07-2011, 02:57 PM
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I skimmed this thread, but why dont you just buy new jets so you can always go back... they are like 7$...
 
  #27  
Old 03-07-2011, 03:10 PM
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The jet that needs drilled is pressed in.
 
  #28  
Old 03-07-2011, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by EMS_0525
I skimmed this thread, but why dont you just buy new jets so you can always go back... they are like 7$...
Notice the part of the description of the starter jet that reads, "pressed in".

But seriously, I'm not saying that one might not be able to extract a starter jet with heat or such in a very careful manner...but...I don't think I've seen a source for starter jets. I think the reason they are pressed in is because this usually isn't an issue. Manufacturers can even be a little rich on the starter circuit since it only functions when the choke is operated. In the case of the KLX, they just spec'd one that's on the lean side. I actually drilled mine out to .020", but I can't leave the choke on for more than a few seconds. It's not a problem, but I could tell I didn't have to go that large. Just 1 or 2 thousandths is all that's needed to get the needed amount of fuel for a fast cold start. You'd think such a small increase wouldn't give this result, but it does it in spades. Over many years at a shop I worked at through the '70's and 80's, we fixed quite a few incalcitrant cold start bikes in this manner. It's a real PITA having a bike that doesn't want to start in cooler weather. This is an easy fix.
 
  #29  
Old 03-07-2011, 03:14 PM
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K, now im lost... its not the pilot or main jet, cause those are changeable. What are you drilling?
 
  #30  
Old 03-07-2011, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by EMS_0525
K, now im lost... its not the pilot or main jet, cause those are changeable. What are you drilling?
Starter jet...
 


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