I checked into it find out that the 96' klx 650 kit uses the same front hub has the 2007 250s.So that would a direct fit.

 

Yes I found that too but only the C dual sport model--not the R version. Good luck finding a disc for that. That was my hope at first.

 

anyone have a spare stockrear rotor hanging around that they wouldn't mind selling? i have a second set ofrims and the rear rotor is whipped.

 

Got the rotor kit, drilled the mount holes out with a cobalt bit, bought the 8x20 countersunk stainless steel bolts, got a Moose Racing braided steel line for a WR450 and a good used master cylinder from a KX250F. Everything is coming together. A true testament to the good information posted on this forum. Saved me time and money and frustration by following the post. I am here to say it works, an EBC 320mm rotor and bracket kit will work on a KLX250S with minumal mods.Can't wait to finish it off, still working on the 17" wheels. Not looking forward to bleeding the brake line however. Any good advice on this?

 

You are a pioneer if you are trying the KX250F master cylinder. The tried and true one is off of a late model KX250 (2cycle, not 'F'). I have one on my bike and it's working great. I don't seewhy the master cylinder off of an 'F' wouldn't work though..just never saw it tried before.

If you want to keep your brake light, get a single deep banjo boltpressureswitch and hook it to the wiring that went to the microswitch on the stock master cylinder. Use it in place of the banjo boltwhereyour line hooks to the mastercylinder.

 

Yes indeed the master cylinder from a KX250F fits just fine as pix shows. Used a 10mm x1.25 banjo bolt brake switch which mated up just fine. Bled the line using a Mytvac vacum pump set @10lbs, slow bleed with fluid added as it went down, pumped the brake afew times to get the air to the bottom and finshed that process off without a problem. Now the brake is firmer than a silicone breast! My advice to all who follow is to read all the froum posts related to the topic you are researching and proceed from there. Kudos to the fellows that started the brake rotor thread. Can't wait for the wheels to be done and then the rotor goes on with test ride to follow. Should be nothing less than awsome.

[IMG]local://upfiles/8769/FF221876F1C740719EC6906C22262DC9.jpg[/IMG]

 

To return the favor tell me about your wheels--

Where? How much? How? What are they?

I was going to go full motard but I could not find a brake option either when I started. I did not want to get wheels then not be able to get a disc--so I experimented with the disc first. Now I am torn whether to turn it into a full tard or go back to dirt bike & get something else to perform the one I abandon. I dont know what to do. I dotn really want to switch back & forth between a tard wheel set & a dirt wheel set as the speedo & gearing would be off or have to be changed too. PLus now I have to change the caliper bracket when I go back & forth--beofre I was just swapping between a 21/18 dirt & 21/18 street set, not a 17/17.[&o]

 

The wheels are not yet done, should have them soon. Sun rims customed drilled with Buchanon spokes on stock hubs. http://www.procycle-online.com/main/supermoto.htmprice $1099. I did not want tear down my dirt wheels to build the 17"ers.This would have saved some$$. This is what I had in mind for the bike from the time I saw. A modern street legal MX type bike with small displacement and light weight attracted me. I was riding a street legal and plated Xr650r (big red pig)in supermoto trim at the time and wanted an electric start and smaller size and weight. Although I wil have the dirt wheels as extra, I doubt I will be doing much switching back and forth. I have a KX250 for that chore anyway. I will report on the progress and post pix when wheels arrive. I have done other mods as well to lighten up the bike and make it look 'sano' (now that's a old mx'er term that will show my age).