2nd from the top as the needle sets in the holder (i.e. the "base").

 

Ahh.. TOP as in the "base".. since the needle faces downward when the carb is installed. So I guess I have it in the 4th slot from the top then. Would that mean I'm running really rich in the top end? It might explain why it feels a little flat above 8000. At least the needle is easy to get to. I probably won't even need to disconnect the tank.

I'm definitely a noob at carbeurators. It's definitely easier ot plug a laptop into a Powercommander to make changes, but FI seems harder ot get smooth, carbs are more self adjusting.

 

This post should really be stickied

 

Try going up two positions. You may well be too fat in the mid-to-high range on the 4th postition.

 

Thanks. I'll just wait until I install the Muzzy. What do you suggest on the jetting for that? The Dynojet kit (for the KLX300R) came with a 128, 132 and also the needle has a more agressive taper. I think I'll try the recommendation in the instructions. I said to use the 132 and 4th position on the needle. That is for the 292cc motor, but with no airbox cover and drilled out stock exhaust... not a high flow aftermarket pipe. I also wonder with the Muzzy if the KX will also be a little restirctive, but I'm a little concerned about mud or water gettting in the airbox. It's still mostly covered by the seat... but how good is that oil on the filter at keeping too mcuh water from flooding the motor? What's your opinion?

 

I have the Muzzy full and I also used the 300R dyno jet kit I have no flat spots threw out the range with clip on 3rd notch on needle, 128 main jet, fuel screw 2 1/2 turns out, and #32 bit drilled out slide lift hole. I took of the snorkle and drilled six half inch holes above the filter on the air box cover. I also removed the air injection plumbing as per Todds instructions(never did that before). I have done tons more than all of that but those mods contributed most to increase in power, maybe not so much the air injection plumbing but It did decrease the pipe's heat. Heres a picture of my almost completed KLX picture is pretty low quality.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1071/2F9717D300384ECDBF3DB24D7CE0729D.jpg[/IMG]

 

Better picture!

[IMG]local://upfiles/1071/6D66160D86604F5EA0C31CC5BD63BB39.jpg[/IMG]

 

For those of you considering the Muzzy (or for those of you with the stock head pipe and only a very few miles on the bike), I strongly recommend removing the air valve system from the bike. This will greatly reduce the bluing (or brown tint) of the head pipe.

This has to be done soon or the high temps will permanently discolor the pipe. As few as 20 miles with the air valve in place will ruin the looks of the head pipe.

 

I found an easer way to drill out the crankcase breather hole. All I did was heat up my drill bit with a torch and she pushed right threw. You will have to reheat and clean the bit with a rag a few times to remove the left over plastic form the bits threads. Reheat the bit and push it threw till you feel it’s opened up enough. No more little plastic pieces left from hand drilling. If you have an old nut driver you can cut off some of the handle to get to the nuts in the air box.

tools I used

[IMG]local://upfiles/1499/440E6D9F70624B2C9791137DD9D35E99.jpg[/IMG]

 

Now that's using your head!