Oil Change - First One
#11
RE: Oil Change - First One
Ok? if that's true how do you hold it from falling while you put it in there? There is no stud or anyway to keep it there. But I will print that out, let me know how it goes with you're first change. Thanks Todd.
deej
deej
#12
RE: Oil Change - First One
Mounting the Pelican was really easy. I got three 1/2" Adel clamps (rubber coated metal bands with bolt holes in the ends). I also picked up 3 adjustable clevis pins in 1/4" diameter. Adjustable just means they have a half dozen cotter pin holes along the length instead of just one at the end. I also picked up some hair pin cotters to match the hole size in the clevis pins.
I drilled two 15/64th holes through the front two feet on the bottom of the Pelican. I placed the holes as far forward and outboard within the 1/2" diameter foot as possible (note: by forward I mean toward the case handle). I mountd the case using these two holes first. I slipped the Adel clamps around OEM luggage rack and placed the clevis pins up through the bottom of the Pelican using these two holes. I made the holes 15/64th instead of 1/4" in order for the fit to be very snug in the hopes of reducing water intrusion. I placed a 1.5" rubber washer with a 1/4" center hole over the clevis pin inside the case and then a slightly smaller metal washer (also with a 1/4" center hole) on top of that. By adding additional rubber washers below the metal washer, I was able to snug up the fit to match one of the several holes in the clevis pins to force the Adel clamp to be as tight as possible on the rack.
Once the rear two pins were snug, I lifted the back of the case (closest to the seat on the bike) and placed a third Adel clamp on the front rail of the rack. I marked the spot on the bottom of the case for the third hole to be drilled, drilled it, and then re-installed the case with all three pins.
Finally, I used a cut off wheel on my dremel to remove excess length from the clevis pins and placed small rubber caps over the ends.
I got all the parts at Lowes.
I drilled two 15/64th holes through the front two feet on the bottom of the Pelican. I placed the holes as far forward and outboard within the 1/2" diameter foot as possible (note: by forward I mean toward the case handle). I mountd the case using these two holes first. I slipped the Adel clamps around OEM luggage rack and placed the clevis pins up through the bottom of the Pelican using these two holes. I made the holes 15/64th instead of 1/4" in order for the fit to be very snug in the hopes of reducing water intrusion. I placed a 1.5" rubber washer with a 1/4" center hole over the clevis pin inside the case and then a slightly smaller metal washer (also with a 1/4" center hole) on top of that. By adding additional rubber washers below the metal washer, I was able to snug up the fit to match one of the several holes in the clevis pins to force the Adel clamp to be as tight as possible on the rack.
Once the rear two pins were snug, I lifted the back of the case (closest to the seat on the bike) and placed a third Adel clamp on the front rail of the rack. I marked the spot on the bottom of the case for the third hole to be drilled, drilled it, and then re-installed the case with all three pins.
Finally, I used a cut off wheel on my dremel to remove excess length from the clevis pins and placed small rubber caps over the ends.
I got all the parts at Lowes.
#15
RE: Oil Change - First One
http://www.kawasaki.com/default.asp?...arketingId=123
The entire parts file is on line on the main Kawasaki website. You have to dig a bit to find it since the proper link off of the KLX250S accessories page still points to the old KLR250 parts file.
The entire parts file is on line on the main Kawasaki website. You have to dig a bit to find it since the proper link off of the KLX250S accessories page still points to the old KLR250 parts file.
#16
Urgent - RE: Oil Change - First One
Deric,
I changed my oil tonight (dealer didn't even have access to KLX250S parts fiche so I had to tell him the part number of the filter).
You NEED to get that spring back in there correctly. Without it, your filter will not fit snug against the o-ring in the cap and your oil will not filter correctly.
To get the spring in, put a dab of grease on the end and "glue" it onto the back of the compartment (it sits inside the four posts cast into the back of the compartment).
I changed my oil tonight (dealer didn't even have access to KLX250S parts fiche so I had to tell him the part number of the filter).
You NEED to get that spring back in there correctly. Without it, your filter will not fit snug against the o-ring in the cap and your oil will not filter correctly.
To get the spring in, put a dab of grease on the end and "glue" it onto the back of the compartment (it sits inside the four posts cast into the back of the compartment).
#18
RE: Urgent - RE: Oil Change - First One
Ok I see what you are talking about, but nowhere in the book does it say how to keep the spring from falling out, I think Kawasaki dropped the ball on this one, there should have been an easier way to make this work, perhaps a spring attached to the filter, I will get it back in there , but I'm not impressed. I have a buddy that has a 2003 KLR 250, but I don't think it's the same thing, I was going to look at his.[&:]
deej
deej
#20
RE: Urgent - RE: Oil Change - First One
Thanks Todd, I rode the bike to work, and am installing the spring as soon as the engine cools down, I'll let you know how it goes. You know I thought of the grease trick, I have used that in the past to hold other parts together while assembling stuff. Well I gota go. TTYL Oh and thanks for the parts website, I spent an hour looking at all of the parts. I actually put in my VIN# and it even told me when my warranty expired. Nice find.
deej
deej